The Firearms Forum banner

Newbie

4K views 42 replies 24 participants last post by  Kody24 
#1 ·
Have never attempted the reloading procedures. But I am eager to begin. That being said, I need to know the process in starting. Example what all from beginning to end am I going to need to get started? My plans are to load and re-load 243,270, 280, 7mm, 7mm-08, and 30-30. I realize this is a lot. So if we can just start with one caliber, I think I can move from there on to the next round.

So please, let's start off with the 280, as it's my favorite. From beginning to end what all will do need to purchase in order to get the ball rolling.
Thanks so much

I Did
 
#2 ·
Start with a Lyman #49 or #50 manual and/or ABC's of reloading to get all of the hows and whys and safety info. Depending on the bullets used you might want to pick up load data from that manufacturer as well.

If you have a straight wall rimmed cartridge that you can reload that would be better than jumping straight into bottle necked, but isn't necessary either.
 
#7 ·
Thank you for your response,

I don't think I have anything that is going to be a straight neck. Now this is me thinking about the bullets I have. The manuals you spoke of, is there a site that offers these in conjunction with this forum. And maybe even offered at a reduced price?
Welcome to The Firearms Forum and also to the addiction of reloading. There are no sites that offer any discounts to TFF members. We do have a few sponsors such as slickguns.com but I don't think I have ever seen them offering any reloading manuals.
 
#17 ·
I will second what everyone has already said.
Welcome to TFF sir!

Check the sale listings here too, often can find some good deals when members clear out their closets.
 
#18 ·
Once you get going with the 280, the only other tools you'll need are dies in the cartridge's you want to reload. Like everyone says, get a book. Doesn't really matter which one, none will let you blow yourself up. Go with one book at the beginning and and learn as you go. Most of us will recommend getting the book we use, I won't but will say I have old and new Hornady books, old Speer book, old Nosler book, and several very old Lyman and one new Lyman. Decide which bullet's you want to start with and get their book! Don't worship speed, you can really get carried away with that.Don't get a chronograph right off, better you don't really know how fast your loads are. I did without one for a lot of years and doubt I was at any disadvantage. You'll have some idea of velocity just from what printed in the book's, live with it and learn to read pressure signs.

Tools you can get in a kit and I think that is the best way to go. Don't believe that price means quality, it doesn't. All that means is some cost more than others. I no longer recall what is in the kit's but one thing I recall is none come with a caliber to measure the length of your case's. Harbor Freight and several other place's have them for about $20. What you need to get going is a press, I recommend a single stage but lot's of folks like the progressive's. The single stage will make you learn every move, a progressive won't necessarily. Don't give up the ability to learn for speed, a bad trade off IMO. You'll need a set of dies for what you want to load and a different set for each catrtidge, Dies will run form about $25 dollars to over a hundred. They will all do the same thing unless you get specialty dies, avoid them for now. You'll need a shell holder for each cartridge class. IE your 280 will take the same shell holder as any other case made on the 30-06 case and the308 case cartridge, they interchange. You'll need a case trimmer. I think Lee has one the is caliber specific, it's not much more than a rod that goes to the bottom of the case and you can turn it by hand. You could start with a Lee powder dipping set but I'd strongly suggest don't. Get a powder measure. Lee have one most people seem to like very well. My son had one and he liked it. I have little experience with Lee tools myself but I have been very happy with the one's I have. I have no idea anymore what a powder measure cost. I've got an RCBS 10-10 and have been using it over 30 yrs now. There are electronic scales out there I have never felt the desire for one. Most people using them are happy with them but I have heard that if the battery's get low, they get off. I don't know if that's true of not, I'm also not willing to find out.

Don't plan ahead in the beginning, take each step as it come's. You get to far ahead of yourself and you'll be prone to making a mistake. Mistakes are easy to avoid if you take your time and think through each stage. There is not much that is difficult about reloading. You'll find after a while there are very few mistakes the tool's will make, most are caused by human failure, pay attention to what your doing. Again, decide what bullet you want to use and get it and the manufacture's book. I've used Hornady, Speer, Nosler, Herter Remington and probably a few other's over the year, all of them will kill quickly if properly used.
 
#19 ·
Welcome to the wonderful, oft confusing and frustrating world of reloading...

Have you done any research prior to posting here? Google "How to reload rifle cartridges" and you'll get a thousand hits. I'd suggest getting a copy of The ABCs of Reloading before you buy/do anything else. This text will walk you through the process and explain what tools/equipment is needed. If you can't find a copy in your price range, check your library or used book stores (Amazon has new and used copies https://www.amazon.com/ABCs-Reloading-Definitive-Novice-Expert/dp/1440213968).

When you start; go slow, double check everything, and most important, have fun...
 
#20 ·
Natchez Trace was mentioned and I do buy from them some. Others are:

MidwayUSA
Graf & Son's
Mid-South Shooters Supply
Buffalo Arms, they cater to old stuff

I buy more from Mid-South & Buffalo Arms than anyplace else but they cater more to what interests me.
 
#21 ·
this may go against most advice on here, but you may want to start looking at getting some supplies, mainly projectiles, it will be a while till you get everything together, in the mean time you may catch some sales, there were quite some deals this past holyday season, I see them often around the holydays, free shipping too,

most will tell you to read the books first and than look for the components on the recipes in your book, and that is solid advice, I'm just a cheap bastard and I hate to order supplies because I am getting anxious and 2 weeks later I see them on sale for some 20%off and free shipping.
 
#22 ·
Have never attempted the reloading procedures. But I am eager to begin. That being said, I need to know the process in starting. Example what all from beginning to end am I going to need to get started? My plans are to load and re-load 243,270, 280, 7mm, 7mm-08, and 30-30. I realize this is a lot. So if we can just start with one caliber, I think I can move from there on to the next round.

So please, let's start off with the 280, as it's my favorite. From beginning to end what all will do need to purchase in order to get the ball rolling.
Thanks so much

I Did
Thank you for your response,

I don't think I have anything that is going to be a straight neck. Now this is me thinking about the bullets I have. The manuals you spoke of, is there a site that offers these in conjunction with this forum. And maybe even offered at a reduced price?
Do not go 'light' on reading and / or gathering information prior to reloading / handloading.

You can not read too much or know too much. There is no such thing as 'too careful' and attention to detail is absolutely critical.

This is not a matter to be rushed or entered into lightly. I also recommend (as you are now doing) that you consult others who are familiar with the processes.
 
#25 ·
I did
I load ALL of the cals you listed and MANY more in rifle, pistol and four gauges of shotshells.

What is said here is rock solid in my opinion. Go back and read what Don has posted. He has obviously put a LOT of thought into his info and it is all good as have all the others. What the others have said also especially as they have pointed out, take your time, READ, then READ and then when you are tired, read some more.
The people on this forum as you have surely realized are very good, extremely knowledgeable and very good about helping anyone seriously interested in loading/shooting. They will never lead you astray so don't be afraid to ask ask any questions you may have or that will come up in the future. You don't have to reinvent the wheel we all have begun from scratch at one time or another and no one has ALL the answers. But, put us all together and all questions can be answered from the books and from personal experience.

I have most if not all of the bullet and powder manuf. manuals new and old dating back to the late 60s and I have read them ALL and often reread specific info in them. It is fun, as well as very interesting, you will find And most important, they are the most informative thing to do with your reloading experiences.
One thing you will find is that with every manual and a suggested "load" for a specific cartridge, they will be different by as much as a grain to 1,5 grains. So look at the starting loads and work up. Do as Don Fischer said, learn to read pressure signs, (the manuals will explain).

Good luck and have fun.

Welcome from AZ and Wyo.

UF
 
#26 ·
You can view help videos at manufactures web sites such as Lee Precision or Dillon that show you how to operate their equipment that are a great help. There's also some pretty good videos on Youtube that you can watch to get you started.

You just have to make your own decision on what equipment you buy. There's a lot of people that think that what they use is what everyone should use. In truth there's not a wrong type of equipment to use because all the major manufactures make good equipment. You just need to make that decision by what your needs are.

Such as do you shoot a ton of ammo in a few calibers? If so you'd probably be better off getting started with a progressive press.

Do you shoot a moderate amount of ammo but you shoot a lot of different calibers? Then a turret press like Lee's Classic 4 hole turret press would be a good way to go because you can change calibers in seconds without using any tools with that press and still crank out a decent amount of ammo per hour.

Maybe you're just a hunter that only shoots enough ammo to sight in your rifle and load for what you shoot hunting? Or maybe you shoot bench rest competition and need ammo that's more precision? Then a single stage press would probably fit your needs. Even with a single stage you can still load a lot of ammo it just takes longer.

Just don't let people scare you away from progressive or turret presses because you're a beginner. You can load one round at a time with a progressive press until you're familiar with what's going on. A turret press is nothing more than a single stage press with all the dies mounted on one plate that you don't have to remove for each step of the loading process.

Good luck to you.
 
#27 ·
Have never attempted the reloading procedures. But I am eager to begin. That being said, I need to know the process in starting. Example what all from beginning to end am I going to need to get started? My plans are to load and re-load 243,270, 280, 7mm, 7mm-08, and 30-30. I realize this is a lot. So if we can just start with one caliber, I think I can move from there on to the next round.

So please, let's start off with the 280, as it's my favorite. From beginning to end what all will do need to purchase in order to get the ball rolling.
Thanks so much

I Did
I book a couple manuals but the rcbs Dvd was extremely helpful
 
#30 ·
Have never attempted the reloading procedures. But I am eager to begin. That being said, I need to know the process in starting. Example what all from beginning to end am I going to need to get started? My plans are to load and re-load 243,270, 280, 7mm, 7mm-08, and 30-30. I realize this is a lot. So if we can just start with one caliber, I think I can move from there on to the next round.

So please, let's start off with the 280, as it's my favorite. From beginning to end what all will do need to purchase in order to get the ball rolling.
Thanks so much

I Did
The absolute first item on the shopping list is a reloading manual. You can pick any brand, I recommend the Lee manual since Richard has a good way of explaining things and actually describes the process start to finish in detail in the front of the latest edition of his manual - just gloss over the sales puffery about cost and quality of Lee products. Make that decision on your own when you go shopping.

Second item on the list - a book called the ABC's of Reloading. It is available in print and electronic.

Third item - ask questions and don't be afraid to ask someone to let you help next time they are reloading so you can observe/learn or go to your local outfitter or range and see if someone offers a class (usually just a couple hours).

AFTER you have read both books, you are ready to ask questions here about brands/colors of presses, dies, etc. I, and many others will strongly suggest you buy a single stage as your first press. The reason is simple - it is a simple machine that does one thing at a time and you can learn one step at a time and also, even if you move into progressive in the future, there is always a need/home for a single stage to work up a new recipe or to decap a lot of brass, etc. Don't let the Blue Crew convince you otherwise, you need a single stage and if you know you are going progressive in the future just buy a less expensive single stage or a used one to learn on and have for those small batches.

The following is the "cliff notes" version of what you will do and need:

Components i.e. cases, primers, bullets, and powder. Start collecting your spent brass now if you haven't already.

Equipment includes a means to clean the brass, a press, dies, powder measure device(s), assorted small (hand) tools, and storage.

Cleaning supplies/equipment - some reloaders pride themselves on shiny as a new mirror ammo, others claim to never clean brass. Ultimately, you are going to end up with some brass that has dirt in or on it, carbon buildup in the primer pocket, etc. and sooner or later you will not be willing to put it in a container of warm soapy water and shake like crazy. Options are tumblers (dry or wet) or sonic cleaners and cost runs the gamut, spend a little or spend a lot, they all make dirty brass clean, it is how clean and how long it takes that you pay to acquire. The tumbler needs media (metal if wet; corncob or walnut if dry, and a chemical if sonic); a sifter or sorter makes life easier but not an absolute necessity. A tool to clean/scrape built up carbon from the primer pocket is borderline mandatory - luckily a small blade screw driver will suffice in a pinch but primer pocket tools are pretty inexpensive. Also if you are working with military brass - there are a couple additionally items you will need (does not apply to .280 rounds.)

Next is a towel or drying space - if you use wet tumbler or sonic cleaner. Literally, this part is the easiest and cheapest, you just need to dry so an old bath towel that you would otherwise throw away or a couple shop towels.

You will need a press and dies. (Read shopping items 1 & 2 BEFORE you buy these tools, you will be glad you did). Of course the press needs someplace to sit or be mounted (bench? but I assume you have the space to reload picked out already). Dies you will need at a minimum are a Full Length sizing die and a seater die for the rounds you are making, in this scenario 280. If shooting a bolt action, you MAY opt for a Neck sizing die but for the time being, let's just work with full length resizing. Now at this stage the minimum equipment is a press and dies, but reality is different, you want (pretty much need) calipers, bullet puller, a powder measure and reloading tray. You also need case mouth lube and a means to measure the powder i.e. "Lee dippers" or scales and I have never used the dippers so I personally say scales are mandatory. A powder trickle is a "nice to have item" but one you can certainly live without, ditto on the powder measure. You also need a means to trim the brass (including deburring tool) if reloading rifle and a go/no-go gauge is pretty handy but not necessary since you have calipers. Finally a box to store the complete ammo in is pretty much a necessity.

The steps - again this is the Cliff Notes version, please read at a minimum one reloading manual and the ABC's of Reloading before you try this at home -

1. clean the brass as necessary
2. set up your press with the sizer die, make sure the recapping rod is in or out based on your brass and even if you purchase new brass, full length size it the first time anyway.
3. add little (very little) lube to the case mouth
4. insert brass into case holder and raise the ram to size (and if the DC rod is in place, decap the brass)
5. Lower the ram and remove the clean, decapped and sized brass which must now be checked for length (remember those calipers, or if you opted a go-no go gauge)
6. trim the brass if necessary (the reloading manual will tell you the maximum cartridge length but over time you may "adjust slightly" to get a perfect fit for your rifle, first several hundred need to be to book numbers and "adjust" that length only with extreme caution.
7. place the trimmed and ready to prime brass in the reloading tray and repeat with another piece of brass, then repeat again, etc. until you have a batch.
8. prime each piece of brass in the batch
9. add powder to each piece of brass in the batch
10. set up your press with the sizer die and one piece at a time, insert the brass into the shell holder, place a bullet on the case mouth, raise the ram and seat the bullet.
11. lower the ram and extract the completed round
12. repeat

Now, that may sound like a lot but it really goes fast when you get a rhythm going and some of the "nice to haves" make it much faster. Setting up the dies the first time is the most difficult part in my opinion. A fellow reloader is your second most valuable resource, the first is a reloading manual so go back to step one - acquire a reloading manual (again, I recommend Richard Lee's book as the first manual) and acquire ABC's of Reloading and read.
 
#31 ·
Good post. Only thing I would change is the Lee starting manual. Reason being, I have read that they don't develop their own reloading data but rely on what's already there. I much prefer at your stage to get data right from the bullet maker you choose to use. Hornady, Nosler and Speer have been making bullet's and developing their own data for a long time. If you manage to blow up your rifle using handloads, there's a good chance the manufacturer will dis claim all responsibility, you used a handload and they have no control over what you do. The bullet companies may do the same thing if you use someone else's data. On the good side, reloading is no more dangerous than the individual makes it.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top