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Discussion Starter #1
For all those who load the 300 win mag, I have a question about powders. I only have used Hodgdon powders for all my other loads in different calibers. I see there are a few different Hodgdon powders for the 300 that seem to be good on paper. Like H1000, H4350, H414, H4831. Which powder will perform best. I would be interested in a IMR if it was good. I just bought a LB of H4350 that seems to cover all weights from 110gr to 220 gr and many different bullet styles. I'm hoping I made a good choice. Well let me know any opinions that you may have.
 

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For me there are only 2 powders that should ever be used in 300 win mag. IMR4831 and Hodgdon Hybrid 100V. IMR4831 for weights under 150gr and 100V for 150+. Most people would probably suggest IMR4350 but 4831 and 100V perform better for me. I get 3 shot 1 hole groups with 125gr nosler ballistic tips and 150gr Combined Technologies Silvertips out of a stevens 200.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I seen imr 4831 @ cabelas yesterday. ill stop again today and pick some up
 

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I don't load for the .300WinMag...the closest cartridge on my list is the 7mmRemMag and the .25-06 (yes, the .25-06 is roughly just as overbore as the .300Mag and powder choices are similar).

H4831 and IMR4831 are very close in performance. If you've got a load for one that works in your rifle, then you can probably find a good working load using the other powder. Pretty sure you're aware of it, but I better add that you can't just interchange the two as they do have different burn rates and charge weights are different.

H1000 also works good for a slow burner in the 7mmMag, as does IMR7828.
RL22 is also one that Have had good luck with in the 7,
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I bought a savage 111 trophy hunter xp in 300 win mag of course. I haven't shot it yet. Going to soon though. I got it at cabelas the other week. I bought H4350 and H 1000. I have hornady 180gr BTSP interlock bullets. Gdmoody sent me a few shells and I'm waiting on 50 I found in a local ad. When I get those ill load some up and try the gun out. Besides waiting for my shells I can't wait to load and shoot.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I heard a lot of good about savage it was between a remington 700 or savage well you know what I got. I wanna shoot long distance. My son wants me to make a sniper rifle out of it that's still a possibility tho. Thanks for the advice slayer.
 

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No problem. Savage makes nothing but accurate shooting guns. I've seen so many problems with Rem. 700's that I couldn't be paid to own one.
 

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none of my 3 rem 700's is anything but a tack driver / game taker.

that said. all my savage rifles are fine as well.
 

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none of my 3 rem 700's is anything but a tack driver / game taker.

that said. all my savage rifles are fine as well.
Agreed that when they shoot they shoot well. From my experience with friends that have had 700s there were a lot of problems such as a head space problem. Got sent back to Remington and it came back even worse. I've also seen issues with the bolts feeling like they were sliding on sand paper. Extractors breaking within the first 10 rounds fired and feed issues.
 

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bolt glide is actually what i like about my remmy's they feel like oil gliding on ice. I swear. my 3006 bolt is the smoothest bolt i have ever used.... period. uncanny smooth even... it's my regular go -to hunting gun for florida sized game. the savage 110 3006 i picked up for my buddies daughter to shoot, so i could get some time on my own gun is just as much a tack driver.. but doesn't hav ethe butter smooth bolt of that rem. my 222 and 223 rem have what i would consider normal bolts.. just like my other savage rifles.. and an old mossberg bolt 3006 i have.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I got a question about the brass. If the brass is shorter than trim length, is that ok. Just go ahead and load it or what? I have 4 pcs 2 are shorter by .002 I think. How will that affect the pressure if my bullets have cannulures and I seat to the cannulure?
 

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At .002" under just go ahead and load 'em up and shoot 'em. They certainly ought to grow after the first firing.

I'm a 700 Remington fan; I like the ergonomics of the stock/action better than most others available. That said my .300 did take a bit of time to shoot in. I glass bedded it and took out that stupid bump in the stock. Put a 'brake on it. Worked up a bitchin' load and it's my go-to rifle when I absolutely have to kill something.
 

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Myfriendis410 nailed it. Where the cannulure is doesn't make a difference. What I do is make a dummy round seat the bullet out far and chamber it. Measure the OAL of the dummy round and back it off .020 and then set my seating die with the dummy round.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hey when I look at the Hodgdon annual manual for the powder H4350 it says to start with a charge weight of 63gr and max at 67gr with a regular lrg rifle primer. Speer #14 says to start with 67gr and a max of 72gr with a magnum primer. Why such a big difference? And that's with a 180gr BTSP bullet. I take it both are safe otherwise it wouldn't be in the book. Which one should I go with? Or it doesn't matter?
 

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I personally would go with the hodgdon data. Hodgdon seems to list charges that produce great accuracy. You could always work up to the heavier speer data if the accuracy is there.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ok that sounds good, ill do that. I also wrote Speer and asked them the same question. Just waiting for them to reply. But I will start at Hodgdon's data and work up. That is a big difference to me, mite to be to someone who's been reloading fora longtime. It just caught my eye when I noticed it. Thanks slayer.
 

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If you compare 5 manuals none will have the same data. Some of it has to do with different lots of powder and some of it is to cover their backs from people who would happen to have an accident and then want to sue the powder or data company.
 
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