OK I was reloading Lehigh penetrator 125 grain in starling brass Starliner brass and the bullet tip has a double ridge the ridges bulging the case if you look at my emoticon that's my problem
The plunk test is remove the barrel from your pistol, drop the round in, if it fully chambers it is good to go. A lot of people use it when they don't have a case gauge. It is fairly normal for semi-auto rounds to look a little wasp-waisted after reloading.
Yeah only thing is I heard blocks blowup with bad reloads I don't want to blow up my Glock 17 and it doesn't look right either
I just wanted to say I'm from New York and the gun laws [bleep] here getting ready to leave go to Virginia get some real shooting in some real weapons not this New York [bleep]. Took a year for regular pistol permit.
It would be nice to have some better pics of the cases instead of the tiny one in your profile avatar
You have to remember that the 9mm is a tapered case so it won't look perfectly straight
When these cases are reloaded it is common for the case to have a slight hourglass profile
The only thing that is putting your Glock in danger of blowing up is ignorance
The Glock factory barrel uses a Polygonal rifling. Shooting lots of lead bullets can lodge the lead in the bore and cause over pressure
Properly loaded plated or FMJ bullets will be fine
You can also load and shoot lead bullets if you go with an afermarket barrel with standard lands and grooves
One more tidbit of free advice is to watch the language
TFF is G rated and family friendly
Factory loaded 9mm ammo has a taper to the case.
When you full length resize, it will resize the case to a consistent diameter, since the only part that resizes the case is the very bottom of the die. When you seat the bullet, the base of the bullet will bulge the case the diameter of the bullet plus the thickness of the brass, it will give it that hourglass shape you are concerned about. I'm going to have to agree with DB and ask you to post a larger picture. Going with your avatar picture, it doesn't look to me you have a problem. Of course, if you are really worried about it, don't shoot it. If you have anyone close to you that reloads, show them, and let them watch you reload and critique your technique.
I've never dealt with a 9mm bullet that would compress a powder charge. I have used compressed charges on rifle loads, but they were all within published charge weights. Are you using published data? What kind of bullets are they? Solids?
I've never dealt with a 9mm bullet that would compress a powder charge. I have used compressed charges on rifle loads, but they were all within published charge weights. Are you using published data?
My recommendation is to disassemble the loaded rounds, restart at the starting load, and work your way up until you either see signs of pressure or you reach max load, or you a satisfied with the velocity or accuracy, whichever comes first. With such a small range of acceptable loads, .1 or .2 grain increments should be good. When reloading for a weapon ALWAYS begin at the starting load. The data in reloading manuals was developed using specific guns and chambers. There is enough variation that what may be okay in their chamber, may be excessive for yours. You should get and read a reloading manual or the ABC's of Reloading to get a better idea of reloading techniques, signs of high pressure, the methodology of determining what is a good load for a particular firearm. It's not just about cranking out rounds per a recipe.
My recommendation is to disassemble the loaded rounds, restart at the starting load, and work your way up until you either see signs of pressure or you reach max load, or you a satisfied with the velocity or accuracy, whichever comes first. When reloading for a weapon ALWAYS begin at the starting load. The data in reloading manuals was developed using specific guns and chambers. There is enough variation that what may be okay in their chamber, may be excessive for yours. You should get and read a reloading manual or the ABC's of Reloading to get a better idea of reloading techniques, signs of high pressure, the methodology of determining what is a good load for a particular firearm. It's not just about cranking out rounds per a recipe.
Might be an idea to show the complete load data for each bullet and the source of that load data. Then a pix of the case before and after resizing and once reloaded as well as the kerplunk results.
If you are referring to the bulge halfway on the left round that is pretty normal, you are stuffing a long bullet down a case. The case is thinner than the bullet so it has to give.
No idea why you chose that bullet but I would suggest getting some "normal" 115/124 grain FMJ/plated/coated bullets at least until you get started. It will save you a lot of money.
Those are some really odd bullet choices for 9mm, but to each his own. Early Glocks were famous for not supporting the ammunition properly near the head of the case, resulting in the Glock Bulge, but I think current editions of them have corrected the problem. I know that many folk here like to start loading with minimum listed loads, but I'm not very patient, so I tend to start with a mid-range load when I'm working up a new load for a new gun or bullet type. If your reference books are up to date, I really don't see any great risk in selecting a load that is somewhat above the minimum, so long as it is well below the maximum. If you're relying on the Lee book, I'd take a step back and buy a real book. Speer and Hornady offer the two best books available, but there are several other excellent resources you can use.
Welcome to our addiction, by the way. Happily, there's no twelve step program to "cure" us.
It is not uncommon to see the 9mm case bulge in the shape of the seated part of the bullet. This is because modern dies size the case to maximize the neck tension to get consistent firing results. As long as your reload passes the plunk test and does not exceed the maximum case diameter the shape we see in the photos is fine. But there is more to reloading that that.
Those are unusual bullets and seem to be of significant weight. Did you find loading data for them (specific powder and amount of powder)? I sincerely hope you didn't guess at it or take some data from a fellow shooter or someone on the internet. Do NOT use a load that you can not get out of a reloading manual or from a manufactures web page or directly from a manufacturer (like the bullet manufacturer). Don't shoot others reloads either...it is not safe as you have no idea whats in them even if the reloader offer you the data he supposedly used.
It is not uncommon to see the 9mm case bulge in the shape of the seated part of the bullet. This is because modern dies size the case to maximize the neck tension to get consistent firing results. As long as your reload passes the plunk test and does not exceed the maximum case diameter the shape we see in the photos is fine. But there is more to reloading that that.
Those are unusual bullets and seem to be of significant weight. Did you find loading data for them (specific powder and amount of powder)? I sincerely hope you didn't guess at it or take some data from a fellow shooter or someone on the internet. Do NOT use a load that you can not get out of a reloading manual or from a manufactures web page or directly from a manufacturer (like the bullet manufacturer). Don't shoot others reloads either...it is not safe as you have no idea whats in them even if the reloader offer you the data he supposedly used.
I get a slight bulge at the top of the case as well, and they fire fine, but I do not have a Glock to worry about. My 9mm bullets plunk fine, and they fit in a case gauge.
Here is a picture from my very first 9mm loads from a year ago, and they had the same bulge.
If you have only been reloading for a couple of weeks, why would you want to jump into loading some sort of speciality bullet? Get yourself some normal round nose 115 grain bullets to practice your reloading skills. Ant that slight bulge around a 9mm cartridge is pretty much normal.
I took a look at the website. Those are expensive bullets to learn on. I second (or third) the recommendation to load a few batches of jacketed or plated ball to get technique and feel down. But the load data on the website is specific and clear.
Maybe he is crimping a bit heavy and causing a little more bulge than normal?
I agree with gd... If you never even looked under the hood of a car, would you jump in to rebuild an engine? Learn the basics first, and avoid issues which can be dangerous.
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