Remington 514 .22 cal rifle?

Discussion in 'Technical Questions & Information' started by JP WI, Aug 8, 2009.

  1. JP WI

    JP WI New Member

    Aug 8, 2009
    I have a Remington 514 that will not eject / extract spent cartridge.
    It shoots great and the above is the only problem I am having with it.
    Any suggestions?

  2. LDBennett

    LDBennett Well-Known Member

    Dec 20, 2003
    Hesperia, CA
    Sounds like the extractor may be maladjusted. It could also be that the gun has been dry fired (pull the trigger on an empty chamber) excessively and the firing pin length is wrong. That creates a dent, in the breech face end of the barrel, that protrudes into the chamber. That dent can drag on the empty case to the extent that the extractor slips off the fired case during the case extraction process. The dent must not be removed by removing metal but the displaced metal needs to be moved back out of the chamber by swaging with a special tool.

    I would also add that the firing pin should have its length adjusted so as to be at least a couple of thousandths of an inch from being able to reach the breech face of the barrel. It is common in rimfire guns to have a firing pin that is not adjusted correctly for length and that creates the dent in the barrel breech face.

    Take your gun to a gunsmith for any of these repairs as each requires special knowledge and/or tools to fix. But first clean the bolt face especially under the extractor (use a dental pick for the corners) to see if maybe collected powder residue is holding the extractor back from getting a good grasp on the rim of the case in extraction. Also clean the chamber too as any buildup there may drag on the case enough for the extractor to fall off in extraction.

    Last edited: Aug 8, 2009

  3. Hammerslagger

    Hammerslagger New Member

    Jul 30, 2009
    LD gives a valid and nearly complete reply.

    I would add that a .22 RF rifle should never be dry fired without a spent cartridge case in the chamber.
    It should be relocated every few shots so that the firing pin is taking the load on its end as it was designed to do. {The late Harold McFarland (in his book Practical Gunsmithing published about 1965) noted than from his extensive experience, excessive dry firing was the number one cause of broken firing pins. I do very little of it.}

    Normally, I do not recommend shortening rim fire firing pins. Some are made from case hardened mild steel. If such is the case, it will need to be heat-treated again in order not to eventually wear (mushroom) too short. It is just simpler to use common sense and not dry fire without a spent case in the chamber. You can de-cock this rifle on an empty chamber by holding the trigger back while you close the bolt.

    The first thing that I would do with your rifle is to remove the bolt, clean it throughly with a material like WD-40, and then examine the end of the outboard extractor. It should have 90 degree hook on the end. If not it is broken and must be replaced.

    If the extractor appears OK, I would get a .22 chamber brush or a .25 cal bronze bore brush, wet it with solvent and throughly scrub the chamber area, only, with it. {It will get (feel) tighter as you get into the bore, where you do not want to go.} {Your rifle may have been fired with a lot of .22 Short ammo and not properly cleaned. This leaves a ring of accumulated powder and lead residue that can interfere with chambering and extraction of Long or Long Rifle ammo.} { For badly neglected chambers I put a solvent dipped bronze (sometimes SS) brush in a segmented cleaning rod and power it with a variable speed drill motor at very low RPM. This is a somewhat advanced technique that can cause more harm than good if not properly performed.}

    Let us know what you discover.
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