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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I thought I had THE gun. Model 70 Featherweight .243. King of the hill.
Wait....not quite.
I could NOT get that thing to shoot cold the same as ...well....just warm.
I spent days getting it zeroed for 100 yards.....cold.
Then the next round would be 3-4 inches away.

I tried everything. The barrel was SUPPOSED to be a free float.
Not hardly. Couldn't get PAPER to go between wood and metal.

So I tried to float it. Fine.
BUT
It warped the float out within 2 months.

Sooo.... Sand it more.

Still warped.
So I ROUTED it out to 1/8" clearance. WARP THAT, MF

And STILL no consistency.

One day I decided to devote a DAY to seeing what I could do. Went to the range and waited TEN MINUTES between shots.

Still no good. 3-4" "groups."

A real misery, I could "zero" it but could NOT go varminting or hunting. Hell, even plinking.

Reloads, factory, 80 and 100 gr. trigger adjusted ...the whole shootin match. ....(pun)

I sold that thing. 馃槨
 

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In my experience a model 70 will either shoot good stock floated or glass bedded one of the three but not more than one. I'm guessing from your description it needed glass bedded.
 

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I almost bought one in 30 06 about 10 years ago. The wood was very nice, the receiver and barrel were very nice. The barrel was shot out 8 to 10 inches from the receiver. Looked like a smooth bore. I thought the price was too good.
 
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It's to late now but in war time some rifle barrels had a single shim near the end of the stock against the barrel supposedly it worked
 

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That Pre-64 you had - did it have the swell under the rear sight for a stock screw?

I bought a late 50's Model 70 action and built it back to original configuration (.30-06). At that time I had my father's 721 and my Post '68 Model 70. Fired them all to see which one was the most accurate. During that testing I found something very interesting: the Pre 64 ended up being accurate WITHOUT the barrel screw in place. With the screw in, the groups began to wander. I removed the screw and the groups settled down and it shot perfectly.

Go figure....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That Pre-64 you had - did it have the swell under the rear sight for a stock screw?

I bought a late 50's Model 70 action and built it back to original configuration (.30-06). At that time I had my father's 721 and my Post '68 Model 70. Fired them all to see which one was the most accurate. During that testing I found something very interesting: the Pre 64 ended up being accurate WITHOUT the barrel screw in place. With the screw in, the groups began to wander. I removed the screw and the groups settled down and it shot perfectly.

Go figure....
IIRC it had a screw to hold the action in. Don't remember if the trigger guard screws went into the action.
I tightened, loosened, and everything on it.
 

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IIRC it had a screw to hold the action in. Don't remember if the trigger guard screws went into the action.
I tightened, loosened, and everything on it.
The screw I was talking about wasn't one of the action screws - it went thru the stock (forward of the trigger guard/floorplate) and screwed into a "swell" under the rear sight under the barrel. The rifle was made that way, but worked much better without that screw in place. Seemed to put a wierd tension on the barrel.
 

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My Pre-64 Lightweight M 70 243 does not have the screw under the rear sight the way the standard weight model does. It shoots very well. The previous owner had floated the barrel. My brother bought a used Pre-64 Lightweight M70 in 30/06 that would not shoot worth a hoot. He set about cleaning all the copper out of the barrel and turned it into a real shooter.
 

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Sounds to me like you found the problem a while back. Your stock is shifting! That up pressure on the front of the stock for the barrel I always remove and float the whole barrel back to the receiver. Had a Sako L61 years ago that I bedded the baerrel solid to the front of the stock and that worked very well. But no matter what you do if the stock is moving around any fix would have been temporary at best. My 700 ADL has that middle screw. Not sure what it does but tighten it to much and you could create a bind in the reciever. I tighten mine down maybe 15 inch pounds, just enough to keep it in.
 

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I thought I had THE gun. Model 70 Featherweight .243. King of the hill.
Wait....not quite.
I could NOT get that thing to shoot cold the same as ...well....just warm.
I spent days getting it zeroed for 100 yards.....cold.
Then the next round would be 3-4 inches away.

I tried everything. The barrel was SUPPOSED to be a free float.
Not hardly. Couldn't get PAPER to go between wood and metal.

So I tried to float it. Fine.
BUT
It warped the float out within 2 months.

Sooo.... Sand it more.

Still warped.
So I ROUTED it out to 1/8" clearance. WARP THAT, MF

And STILL no consistency.

One day I decided to devote a DAY to seeing what I could do. Went to the range and waited TEN MINUTES between shots.

Still no good. 3-4" "groups."

A real misery, I could "zero" it but could NOT go varminting or hunting. Hell, even plinking.

Reloads, factory, 80 and 100 gr. trigger adjusted ...the whole shootin match. ....(pun)

I sold that thing. 馃槨
You issue sounds very similar to the problem I'm having with one of my rifles. Floated my barrel too. No help, no consistency. I guess I'll keep tinkering with it and it's handloads. I'm not ready to give up quite yet but getting close to it. Good luck with yours.
EDIT: sorry I just saw where you sold it.
 
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