How long is the barrel without the flash hider? If under 16" then the flash hider was likely pinned after installation -- especially likely if there's no crush washer. Look very carefully for the exposed ends of the pin -- if you see two, you're in luck and can drive it out. If you see only one end, then the hole is not a thru-hole and once the pin went in, there's no way (that I know of) to get it out, and your only option is the cut off the flash hider and the threaded portion of the barrel it is mounted on. But then your barrel will be even shorter and you must permanently install something else on the muzzle to get it back over the legal minimum 16" length, or else Form 1 an SBR.

 

Remove upper/remove BCG--put reaction rod in until it's locked in lugs-other end is secured in vice or same but Magpul lug tool uses BC to hold it in,,,then unscrew, A pinned device is welded after so it can't be removed-nfa rules...

 

Sounds like the flash hider is pinned. If the barrel is 14.5 inches then its physically pinned in place to prevent removal. A gunsmith can do the job but you need the correct length replacement to keep the 16 inch minimum. If you look on the bottom of the flash hider, there might be a small round pin that's been welded in place.

 

I will check for pin. I talked to Ethan at DD and he said it should just unscrew w/a wrench.
It's was purchased as a 16" barrel.

 

You might luck-out and the flash hider isn't pinned. I bought a Bear Creek 20" upper with a funky flash suppressor that I wanted to remove and replace with a standard A2 style. I padded my vice - removed all of the removables - and like you went after it with a 12" adjustable wrench.

No dice. Two strong men and a boy couldn't get it to loosen that way.

I ended up soaking the suppressor overnight with a Liquid Wrench-like product. After soaking it broke loose. If it hadn't I was going to apply heat - but I didn't need to after all. Just used a generous application of a break free product and let it do it's magic. If yours still won't budge - take it to a gunsmith who knows ARs so you don't wreck your barrel or receiver.

 

It could also have loctite, you will need to take a torch to it all around the flash suppressor. You will know when the loctite begins to melt because it will smoke. When you see smoke use the wrench and see if it loosens. There will be a lot of torque created, would recommend an upper receiver vice block be used.

 

No pin.
Held rifle upright/muzzle pointed upward while sitting. Rifle secured between knees and boots.
Did a slow application of torque w/10" adjustable wrench. Flash suppressor easily broke loose.
There is a black "conical"(not flat) washer(I call it a crush washer.)
I'm sure the 10" adjustable wrench does not qualify as an "Armorer's Tool."
Right now this AR has a 1-4X scope and I'm going to put something w/higher power and shoot some groups. My pet load is: LC brass(range brass), #41 primer, 69gr Nosler Custom Competition, 24.5gr A2520, no crimp. In 2018 it was cutting 3/4" groups at 100 yds.
I also have a bunch of 55gr FMJ, and 52gr HPBTs.
I'm going to let my daughter shoot w/o and then w/suppressor so she knows what the difference is.

I'm also going to look into some of the tools you mentioned above.
Thanks.

 

It is recommended that new crush washers be used once you have removed the flash suppressor. Remember that the concave portion faces the muzzle, also when you replace the the flash suppressor the closed portion should be at the 6 o'clock position so that if you are shooting prone you won't blow dirt upwards.

 

Thx for those tips.
You made me go look at the flash suppressor.

 

Don't use a crush washer if direct mount suppressor..

 

Understood. TY.