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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I took used S&W 22A in on trade, knowing that it was missing the extractor assembly (3 parts, extractor, spring & plunger). Have ordered parts from S&W. Wonder if anyone has any experience on installation procedure.
Haven't got the parts yet, but figure it always a good idea to get your info together before you need it. Any advice appreciated.
 

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There is the extractor, its plunger, and its spring. It is the type that is pushed in (no pin to rotate on) and held in by the end of the plunger under the spring's force.

You first put the spring in the cavity then push it the plunger. The flat on the end of the plunger goes in, towards the slide. You usually can use a small screw driver to force the plunger and spring back into the cavity then push the extractor into the cavity rear end first. Then release the plunger and make sure the flat on the plunger rides on the cutout for it on the extractor. It is a simple easy task.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Another question. Can the rail on top of the barrel be removed. I see it has several allen head screws.
Some previous owner had this gun powder coated green. I want to strip it and take it back to blue. Or at least paint it black.
 

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It is removable but it may be locktired on. In that case you may have to use a little heat to soften the locktite. Sometime a good soldering iron can heat up the screws enough to soften the locktite.

A word of warning about the stud on the bottom of the barrel. If it loosens it will break the back of the sight rail off when fired. S&W fixed this problem in later guns with red locktite. It must be re-installed with red locktite if you remove it. If your rib has the rear most protrusion broken off fear not. It was only an aid to re-assembly and severs no purpose during the firing of the gun and is hidden from view on a assembled gun.

The few things I have encountered in the two 22 Sereis guns I have used (an A and a S) were;

*Barrel hold down stud loosening multiple times until I used red locktite on it

*Broken off protrusion at the rear of the sight rail (twice)

*Out of position ejector that dragged on the slide impairing operation

These are really good guns.

LDBennett
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Decided to go ahead and remove the green paint. Starting with the barrel, where it came off easy with wire brush. Will now polish w/Crokus cloth and then cold blue. As I understand the frame is an alloy, I assume cold blue won't work on it. OK to to leave it "In the white"?
 

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There are paint on finishes or you can just bead blast it to get a matt finish. I did that to my Ruger 10/22 to get its receiver and trigger group to better match the stainless steel Volquartsen barrel.

When you bead blast you have to be very careful to get ALL the beads off the frame. They have a tendency to stick into tight corners and fall out during shooting and into the moving parts of the gun. Glass is much harder than aluminum and some damage to the internal is possible. So closely inspect the bead blasted frame. I should go without saying that the frame has to be completely bare to bead blast it.

LDBennett
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah, I had the sad learning experience that the barrel is evidently made of stainless. Won't take cold blue. Just gonna strip the paint and leave it bare for now. At least it looks better than it did pea green. Might get it Duro-Coated in the future.
 

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Fatstrat:

For a unique look, unlike any other S&W 22A, just bead blast both the barrel and the frame. It will not look like the 22S as that model was painted grey. Another option along those same lines is to highly polish the barrel and bead blast the frame and slide or polish the slide too.

There are so many possibilities that will look good. Bead blasted aluminum I think looks better than stupid paint. Although I do like the grey painted finish on my 22S. If I didn't I sure would try any of the raw finishes I described above. It was the finish look and the lines of my 22S (grey paint and long 7 inch barrel) that drew me to it in the first place when the 22S first came out.

There is an unusual story behind my 22S. I bought it when they first came out. I had it for a couple of years and my adult daughter saw it, shot it, and asked me to give it to her. So, reluctantly, I did. A few years later I decided I wanted another but they were out of production. So I talked her into a new 22A in exchange for it. So it came home. Recently she said that she wanted it willed to her even though she had her 22A in CAMO (UGH!!!). I have many 22 target pistols, some many times better and more expensive guns, but there is something about my 22S that draws me to its appearance. In reality it is more than accurate enough for plinking and informal target shooting.

LDBennett
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'm pretty sure that I have is actually a .22S. 7" barrel. The markings are gone. (except serial stamped into frame under grips) Will try to post pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
There is the extractor, its plunger, and its spring. It is the type that is pushed in (no pin to rotate on) and held in by the end of the plunger under the spring's force.

You first put the spring in the cavity then push it the plunger. The flat on the end of the plunger goes in, towards the slide. You usually can use a small screw driver to force the plunger and spring back into the cavity then push the extractor into the cavity rear end first. Then release the plunger and make sure the flat on the plunger rides on the cutout for it on the extractor. It is a simple easy task.
Extractor parts arrived and installed. MANY THANKS!
 
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