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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so I am in need of a new sharpening system.

I've used since I was a boyscout the same set up. 2 different natural stones, one of them is 2 different grits. So 3 grits through the 2 stones, then onto a whetstone. Both the natural stones are shot. They are about 1/2 gone in the middle. I can still get a decent edge off them, but it takes longer than it used to, and not near as good as I used to get them. I used to test them by shaving a section of hair off my arm. I worked a knife the other night, and didn't get anywhere close to where I wanted it.

I can't seem to find the old natural stones anymore, so what should I get.

I've looked at the lansky, and it seems to be a good system, but I really like doing it by hand.

And there is so many types now. I don't know what to get. I just expected to go get a new stone.

Any suggestions on what to look for?
 

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Oil or water? I like the japanese water stones, but that's just me. Most of the sharpening I do is plane irons and chisels for woodwork.

Most stones now are manufactured, but you can still find natural if you want to pay the price.

All stones need to be dressed periodically and kept clean of course. Often grit from a coarse stone will get transferred to a finer grit stone, which is not good.

A couple links:

http://www.japanwoodworker.com/dept.asp?dept_id=13098&s=JapanWoodworker

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=67175&cat=1,43072

http://www.hallsproedge.com/index.php
 

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I prefer japanese water stones, but in reality I use the Spyderco Sharpmaker. See Here. It is fast and easy, especially if you purchase the accessory diamond triangle rods when necessary to cut a new edge.
 

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Contact Norton Abrasives,they still have natural stones,as well a machinist hones.They even still make the old Norton Tri-Hone,a set of three stones in a oil bath that you rotate the stone up that you want to use.Been using one for over 35 years both for knives and to hone the occasional part,and it's mighty fine.
 

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You can flatten your stones on automotove wet/dry silicon carbide paper. Tape the paper to a flat surface, and rub the stones on it until they are flat again.
 

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I can't seem to find the old natural stones anymore, so what should I get.

I've looked at the lansky, and it seems to be a good system, but I really like doing it by hand.

And there is so many types now. I don't know what to get. I just expected to go get a new stone.

Any suggestions on what to look for?
Ran into the same problem, Lansky's pocket stone isn't stone at all! I just bought one, and I'm not real pleased with it. A few years back I was in one of those stores that claim they sell everything for a dollar. I found some stones there that were corse on one side, and fine on the other. They were about 8" long, 3' wide, and about 2" thick, $1 dollar each, so I bought one. Sure wish I had bought all they had then. Now the only thing I can find is man made materials. If you find anything please let me know where. The dollar shops, and flea markets are about the only places left to look!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thats a good idea Bill, and it might work on the little one, but I'm not sure about the bigger one



 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I was in sportsmans yesterday getting some more reloading stuff and made a trek over to the knives to see what they had in the way of sharpening tools. I kinda like the DMT stuff. What I've seen online they are pretty good. But EXPENSIVE. I'm gonna do some more research, I'd like my next investment to last as long as the last one.
 

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Thats a good idea Bill, and it might work on the little one, but I'm not sure about the bigger one



All you need for those stones, is some warm water, and a little soap! Wash them good, I use a vegitable brush, and let them dry.
 

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Ran into the same problem, Lansky's pocket stone isn't stone at all! I just bought one, and I'm not real pleased with it. A few years back I was in one of those stores that claim they sell everything for a dollar. I found some stones there that were corse on one side, and fine on the other. They were about 8" long, 3' wide, and about 2" thick, $1 dollar each, so I bought one. Sure wish I had bought all they had then. Now the only thing I can find is man made materials. If you find anything please let me know where. The dollar shops, and flea markets are about the only places left to look!
See the links I posted up thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
All you need for those stones, is some warm water, and a little soap! Wash them good, I use a vegitable brush, and let them dry.
You think I just need to clean them? That simple? Hell I thought I needed a new one. Ok, I'll washem up and see if that does the trick. Mighty embarrassed if thats all it is
 

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You think I just need to clean them? That simple? Hell I thought I needed a new one. Ok, I'll washem up and see if that does the trick. Mighty embarrassed if thats all it is
AD, I wash my stones regularly and it's like starting out with a new stone each time. However, to het the perfect apex on a knife you need a perfect level surface to run the blade over. Look up apex. That's the key.
 

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QUESTION for you guys, way back when we used to straighten and hon our knife blades with welding rods....ever hear of that?

We kept our knives sharp to cut through big electrical cables, there were always welding rods around so during down time we'd just grab a few and stroke away to a bright sharp finish.
 

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QUESTION for you guys, way back when we used to straighten and hon our knife blades with welding rods....ever hear of that?

We kept our knives sharp to cut through big electrical cables, there were always welding rods around so during down time we'd just grab a few and stroke away to a bright sharp finish.
Actually, any abrasive will work. The objective is to maintain a consistent angle (~15 degrees each side) throughout each stroke. The apex angle is the sum of the sides, so typically 30 degrees. Difficult to do with out a guide or a lot of practice, and as mentioned earlier a flat stone or other abrasive. Thinner blades, such as fillet knives you're aiming for less angle - 10 degrees each side or so. A steeper angle (up to a point) will hold an edge longer and a shallower angle will slice easier, but not hold the edge as long. The angle you sharpen at should be specific to the use to which the knife will be put. Same with any other cutting tool such as chisels, planes, axes, etc.

There's a lot of discussion about hollow ground vs. flat ground also. Hollow ground has some advantages related to the time spent sharpening, but generally won't hold an edge as long as flat ground.

For my woodworking tools, I hone them to at least 8000 grit, followed by stropping. Angles vary by a few degrees depending on what the need is for a particular wood and grain.

For knifes, a 3000 grit stone is usually sufficient.
 

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The 2 smaller stones appear to be carborundum- man made stones available from Norton. You can even scrub them on the sidewalk to flatten them.
 
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