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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so like most of my reloading stuff I got my powder throw off ebay, used with no manual. Until I started using titegroup I havn't had a problem with it. Unique ok, 2400 ok, titegroup sticks like glue to the sides of the hopper. What gives? Is the powder throw supposed to be grounded? would it help anything? Or is that just the nature of the powder?
 

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reloadings enemy , static ,

1 negative ion generator put it high over the work /reloading area

2 earth your equipment

3 ( if you have huge static problems ) wear a earth strap
 

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and titegroup is one HP-100 V another some of the neonite ones in flakes , they stick ( .223 )

and if your in Australia and them dry winds blow almost everything sticks!!!!! i have a feather on a wire on a active earth.. i've lots a things to kill static

neg ion gen brilliant

1st one used a lot of power , second one ( current one ) uses 50mw/h ( nothing )

guy in arizona showed me , he had static issues with his windy days too

never heard a one before
 

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The coating that builds up on the inside of the plastic reservoir of the powder measure is graphite. I am told that graphite is conductive and can help with any static build up problem. So don't clean the inside of the reservoir. Leave the graphite on the plastic tube and inside the workings of the measure.

I live in the California High Desert where static is generally problem ( I don't own any nylon socks!!). When I set up my reloading equipment I bought a large anti-static mat to place the reloading bench on and for the area immediately in front of the reloading bench. It is grounded. That way it discharges me and the equipment all the time. The press or any of the other reloading equipment is not grounded individually. I have no static buildup problem.

LDBennett
 

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I cut a dryer sheet into a strip and hang it in the powder bottle so that it's in the powder but does not interfere with the opening. Replace it every six months or so. Plus; your ammo smells spring fresh when you shoot it!
 

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Appliancdude,

When I have this problem I empty the hopper, clean it out with rubbing alcohol, and then I throw graphite into it and cycle it through several times. It does not take much. Put the graphite in, like maybe a tablespoon (it is spendy) and cycle it through catching it in your powder pan. Dump it back in the hopper and repeat about 5 or 6 times. Once done, take the graphite and put it back into a small tupperware dish and keep it handy. When ever this happens repeat this process and you should be good to go.

Hope that helped.
Jim

P.S. Rubbing alcohol, q-tips, and graphite are handy to keep close.
 

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If it's brand-new stuff, then the mold-release agent on the plastic is what's causing the sticking.

Disassemble the measure, wash it in hot soapy water, dry and reassemble. It doesn't hurt to wipe it down with a dryer sheet either.
Once it's assembled, fill the hopper up with powder and cycle that hopper load through the measure a few times to get a good coating of graphite onto the measure parts.
It might take a few hoppers full to get a nice coating on everything...just dump the powder into a big cup and refill directly back into the hopper for another trip. Do this until you see that static isn't a problem.
Hmmm...just cycling some powdered graphite through sounds like a good trick too. Thanks Highboy!

Otherwise, if you've got a lot of static in your reloading area do as LD or Jack suggest and figure out what static-control solutions will work for your work bench.
Like LD, I have a static mat on the floor by my bench (leftovers from my electronic repair shop).I also keep my basement around 45% humidity which is enough to keep the static at bay up here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If it's brand-new stuff, then the mold-release agent on the plastic is what's causing the sticking.

Disassemble the measure, wash it in hot soapy water, dry and reassemble. It doesn't hurt to wipe it down with a dryer sheet either.
Once it's assembled, fill the hopper up with powder and cycle that hopper load through the measure a few times to get a good coating of graphite onto the measure parts.
It might take a few hoppers full to get a nice coating on everything...just dump the powder into a big cup and refill directly back into the hopper for another trip. Do this until you see that static isn't a problem.
Hmmm...just cycling some powdered graphite through sounds like a good trick too. Thanks Highboy!

Otherwise, if you've got a lot of static in your reloading area do as LD or Jack suggest and figure out what static-control solutions will work for your work bench.
Like LD, I have a static mat on the floor by my bench (leftovers from my electronic repair shop).I also keep my basement around 45% humidity which is enough to keep the static at bay up here.
No the thing is as used as a, well nevermind. but it is used. It only sticks with the titegroup though. I'll have to go find me some graphite me thinks
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I cut a dryer sheet into a strip and hang it in the powder bottle so that it's in the powder but does not interfere with the opening. Replace it every six months or so. Plus; your ammo smells spring fresh when you shoot it!
I do that with my mec, only because it seems to throw more accuratly. Maybe I'll try it in the powder throw too.
 

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No the thing is as used as a, well nevermind. but it is used. It only sticks with the titegroup though. I'll have to go find me some graphite me thinks
Get a little tupperware dish, like a 1.5"x1.5"X1.0" deep and put one of those moisture packets that you get in prescription bottles and it will keep the graphite moisture free. Also, get some Q-Tips for your ears pumpkin boy. :lmao::na-na:
 

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Wiping down the interior with a dryer strip is OK but I don't know about leaving the strip in the powder. It has chemicals on it (??) and powder is a chemical mixture. Are they compatible? Is there anything being done to the powder by the dryer strips chemicals ?? Question for which I don't have the answers so I would avoid doing it.

LDBennett
 
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