Discussion in 'Technical Questions & Information' started by Charles Christensen, Mar 13, 2012.

  1. Charles Christensen

    Charles Christensen New Member

    Nov 13, 2011
    Jrprich wrote a thread inquiring about recommendations for a dry lube. I put in my .02 about EEZOX being worth a look. When I went back to add another comment about the price I did a search on threads with the word "EEZOX" to find it quickly. Well, a number of interesting threads came up and I started reading. It seems there have been some troubles with stored guns developing rust and pits in spite of good cleaning and a preservative wipe-down. There were even a couple of mentions of stainless Kimbers pitting. So, here are some thoughts out of my metal-working and photography past.

    All stainless steels are not "stainless". The term "stainless steel" covers a wide area with some alloys being more "stainless" than others. The one you select for a particular application may have important requirements that conflict with super corrosion resistance.

    Rust and pitting are forms of slow oxidation akin to fire which is rapid oxidation. Both require three things to occur. Fire requires oxygen, fuel and a spark (or enough heat). Rust requires oxygen, fuel (iron) and moisture. You can defeat both of these processes by eliminating any one of the three requirements.
    In the case of a metallic object (such as a gun) you also have the problem of galvanic corrosion. This is the situation where you have dissimilar metals completing an electrical circuit with the help of some form of electrolyte such as common humidity to form a weak battery. In this case the metal that is more active will sacrifice to the metal that is less active such as aluminum to bronze.

    From the threads I read it was obvious that a number of methods of protection failed. So, I have a couple of suggestions that may be of some help.

    Have you heard of RENAISSANCE WAX? There are a couple of You Tube videos of people using it for gun protection. It is a very high-grade wax and is available on AMAZON and eBAY. Wax is a better sealant than oil because it is more solid. Once it is well applied a waxy rag wipe-down and buffing keeps it sealed. It is also a possibility that BUTCHER'S WAX and SIMONIZE WAX could work. Check the label first for use on metal.

    My last suggestion is from my photography days. I did color-negative printing and those chemicals were expensive. To keep them from dying between uses I would spray a product called BLOXYGEN into the partly filled containers. BLOXYGEN is dry Argon gas and is heavier than air. If you are storing a gun for an extended period of time and can seal it in an airtight container, using BLOXYGEN will just plain eliminate any possibility of rusting. I just checked and it is available on AMAZON. I also noticed other similar products so go there and look around.
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2012
  2. bntyhntr6975

    bntyhntr6975 Member

    May 5, 2009
    Wichita, Ks.
    Sounds fancy, but I just use this VCI stuff. Works great at keeping any rust away for a couple years, probly do better if it was in a sealed up area. Only place I've found it was Dick's Sporting Goods. Only thing I buy from there.

  3. Jim K

    Jim K New Member

    Dec 6, 2009
    Renaissance wax is OK for guns that will not be used at all. It is a favorite for museums where guns (or other metal objects) will be displayed in cases and never touched or handled, let alone fired. The same is true of elaborate air removal or inert gas systems.

    VPI paper is also good, but has a limited life span.

    But most gun owners don't want to put their guns out of touch for years or decades, they only want to prevent rust and corrosion in a gun safe or a cabinet. For that purpose, I have used several types of preservative, including G96 Gun Treatment, which sprays on easily and doesn't build up like some. I don't use WD-40 because I have found that under adverse conditions, it can itself mildew and harm wood or metal finish.

    I generally clean a gun reasonably well, spray on the G96 and (if a handgun) put in in a plastic "baggie"; sealing is not necessary, but is OK. Then in a box and into the safe. The baggie is inert, blocks moisture and keeps in the penetrant fumes. The safe is protected with a "Golden Rod", but a simple low wattage light bulb will work about as well.

  4. Poppypaul

    Poppypaul Active Member

    Sep 19, 2011
    Newtown, CT
    You give a very good explanation of the corrosion process without getting into the great and complex activity that occurs. Thanks for that and also your recommendations.
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