Just figured I'd clarify that when you're annealing cartridge casings, you only want to anneal the neck and not the whole case.The true annealing temperature of brass is around 900 F, but the brass used for ammo can be annealed satisfactorily at about 750 F. That's easy to do with propane - my barbeque hits 750 if I light all of the burners!
Brilliant! That will definitely keep the heat even; an excellent technique! I've been setting them on a plate and roasting the necks with a torch, then dumping them, but your method is far better.Otherwise yup, I use a regular propane torch and a bucket of water.
I chuck the cases into my Lee trimmer shellholder and turn them with the drill as I hold the neck under the flame so I get even heat all the way around.
You don't want to anneal the case head because that will cause the head and case web area of the case to become too soft. This can allow for excessive case head expansion. After a few firings the head can grow too large to fit the chamber of the rifle...remember that even a full-length or small-base die can't resize around the head area of the case. There's always about 1/8" or so that the die can't reach because it's in the shellholder. Case head expansion is one of the indicators I use for watching pressure.Brilliant! That will definitely keep the heat even; an excellent technique! I've been setting them on a plate and roasting the necks with a torch, then dumping them, but your method is far better.
I'm curious, though, why I don't see anyone annealing the entire case when I search on this.This shouldn't affect the safety of the cartridge, and would help to prevent belted cases from splitting at the belt. Just because they're restrained by the chamber walls from moving doesn't mean that they don't experience work hardening in this region. As far as I can find in my reading, all brass ships annealed - fully. How can re-annealing the whole shebang cause any harm? Do you know of any links I can follow to learn more about this?