Tech Tip - Winchester Model 100

New to this forum so pls bear with me. I have a Mdl 100 bought in the early 60's that has been in storage. My problem is that the bolt is now stuck closed. What happened is that "we" tried to check the operation and inserted a empty caseing in to the breach. Now the bolt will not retract, the trigger will not work and the safety is stuck. Any suggestions as to how I should go about fixing this.
Basic Black

 

Welcome Basic
Have you tried inserting something into the barrel and tapping the casing?

 

Too bad AntiqueDoc still isn't around, that sounds JUST like the problem he described up top years ago....That might work, Southern, but the PROBLEM is getting a rod or dowel that is that narrow enough but still take the rapping of a hammer, and NOT bugger up the rifling...


I have a BEAUTIFUL wartime M44 action that I bought as a "parts gun" for $10 that somebody stuck a jacketed soft point in the barrel near the breach (I never figured out HOW, I kind of think some numbnuts was trying to hammer it in from the OTHER end trying to slug measure the bore size???? With an oversized JACKETED bullet???) They took the steel cleaning rod and tried to drive it out backwards when it stuck, and only managed to drive the threads of the rod into the soft point, and then drove the rod in deeper than the muzzle and STUCK it and it looks like quite a few "bubbas" tried their hands at driving the rod out since, peening the rod into the rifling, and buggerring it up....


I finally cut the last 1" off the barrel, and got the rod out, then used a LONGER rod to drive it out, I'm still wondering if I can salvage it....but I figure saving the rod was worth $10, so I'm even....

 

Tks Southernshooter. Would you try using an aluminum cleaning rod or would a piece of wood dowling be better? Really do not want to screwup my dad's 100, it means a lot to me.
BB

 

Black, a solid piece of brass rod, as big as will fit in the bore without binding, and a bit of penetrant, like 'Kroil', would be my first attempt; the rod should be only a couple of inches longer than the barrel, and flat on both ends.
Pour a tablespoon of the penetrant dowh the bore, from the muzzle, and keep the muzzle elevated, for 12 hours or so, before proceeding to attempt to drive out the case, with the rod. If it's simply a stuck case, because of the case having been fired in a different chamber, it will be a walk in the park. The clost fit of the barrel keeps the brass from feexing as you tap on the rod, getting every bit of force to the head of the case; the brass won't harm the bore in any way.
Re read the thread starters original post, if it does not come out and open after six or seven whacks; could be, it's not a stuck case tying up the rifle.
Good luck!

 

Stash247, Tks for the advise. I will try your suggestions this weekend while I am away hunting and let you know how I have made out. By the way, the replies on this forum are quite a bit better and with no sarcasim, which is opposite to the other forum's that I am a member of. Again Thanks .. Black

 

Oh don't worry, Black, stick around for a while and you'll see PLENTY of sarcasm....


We just wait until we know you better and you're a member of the "family," THEN we get vicious


But don't worry, you aren't the ONLY person who has noticed it, in fact, this forum was started 5 or 6 years ago just FOR that reason, a handful of people that knew and respected each other from one of "those" forums where EVERY thread eventually got into pee-up-the-wall contest, "I know better than you," name calling, with trolls always lurking in the wings waiting to pounce ....

We all vowed THIS place would be different, and it IS...and all the mods and admin try to keep it that way...


We get into MANY "hot disagreements," we just try to do it with a LITTLE restraint and class.....and USUALLY succeed....


But thanks for the comment just the same, we try!

 

I sugest you re-read Doc`s advice. (and I will add this---if anyone out there owns the .308 version-I`m sorry, this was the black sheep of this run)

What has more than likely happened is what Doc has described.
The hammer has followed the bolt forward, the hammer now is wedged behind the bolt holding it closed -think of this like a wedge driven in from behind. Getting it out of a sealed action.

Whacking it ain`t gonna work unless you hit it hard enough to break the hammer and anything else connected to that area.

Yo uhave got to get the receiver loosened up or trouble will be your last concern after something inside snaps after you whack it!!


LTS

 

We had the problem Doc mentioned on my Dad's 100 last fall. As Doc said it takes a lot of finiggilin to get it apart but we finally made it. Don't think I would start banging on it. Once you get it apart check the firing pin spring also. Good luck, they are great guns!

 

Tks to every one for their suggestions. I used an Aluminum cleaning rod and insterted it in the barrel, then while pressing down on the bolt/lever I tapped the rod with a hammer. Lo and behold, the caseing popped out. No damage done. Again Tks to everyone. BB

 

how does a person fix the mag jamming problem

 

Today, May 8, we had the same issue with a Model 100 (308) that is described above. We hand-inserted a laser boresight device shaped like a cartridge case but of lite-aluminum. When the bolt closed on it it jammed, Bigtime !!. We finally used a cleaning rod down the bore and hammered it pretty damn hard, while pushing on the operating rod to clear the jam. This did work, but it destroyed the Bore-sight device. I will get another, but I will be careful to load it and keep the empty mag in the gun to prevent the bolt from closing on the chamber during the boresight exercise.

Is there any history of the Model 100 doing this to regular ammo? or is it just with the empty case or irregular stuff like the bore-sighter???

Any other feedback on use of the Model 100 in 308 for Texas Hog Hunts. This will be my first Hog Hunt, and the gun is new to me. Thanks for any and all feedback.
Mayor Al

 

Al,
I've had a 100 for some time now, and have never had it jam on factory stuff. The problem with ammo jamming usually involves reloads of once fired brass that isn't properly full length sized. A semi-auto just doesn't have the camming strength of a bolt gun to yank those tight fitting or too hot loads out of the chamber.
But to be safe, check the items mentioned by Antique Dr regarding the action screws.
As to the hog loads: whatever shoots best in your gun. Despite what you may have heard, hogs (even Texas porkers) aren't cape buffalo. Core-lokts will work in .308. But if you are willing to pay the "insurance", you can't beat Barnes Triple Shox in Federal Premium. Just be sure to test them in your rifle before the hunt.

 

Many rifles will jam if closed on a fired case, especially one that was not fired in that rifle. The case swelled when fired, and then jams when forced into the chamber. It doesn't happen with unfired cases or when firing. It is just bad luck that the boresighter was the right (or wrong) size and jammed in the chamber. A little light oil on it might have helped prevent the problem.

When loading for any semi-auto, you should full length resize and use the special sizing dies that are a bit smaller than the standard.

Jim