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This fell into my lap, not sure what to do with it.

3K views 34 replies 16 participants last post by  howlnmad 
#1 ·
Buddy of mine dropped this off. Thoughts? Comments? Let's hear it!
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#3 ·
Fire was my first thought, but I think it's been in a boating accident. That's a shame, they were eye candy new. That's a candidate for the bead blaster and Cerecoat. I can't tell from the pics, but the pitting on the receiver could maybe be sanded out, the engraving would have to go with it.
 
#6 ·
Not to sure about resurrecting it do the tolerance for the breach block and its fit in the receiver. Once all the heavy rust scale is removed, the tolerances would create a to long a head space. Rebarreling it would eliminate the head space problem, but again I would be concerned about the breach block/receiver tolerance.

The next concern would be all the trigger linkages.

It truly is a crying shame to see a Ruger #1 in that horrible condition. One of my all time favorite firearms.
 
#10 ·
Not to sure about resurrecting it do the tolerance for the breach block and its fit in the receiver. Once all the heavy rust scale is removed, the tolerances would create a to long a head space. Rebarreling it would eliminate the head space problem, but again I would be concerned about the breach block/receiver tolerance.

The next concern would be all the trigger linkages.

It truly is a crying shame to see a Ruger #1 in that horrible condition. One of my all time favorite firearms.
I think I'll definitely clean it up and go from there. It looks like it was once a very good looking rifle, I hope I can do it justice.
 
#12 ·
I've never used Kroil - but I have used Liquid Wrench. If it were mine - I'd giver it a month long soak in either one and free up the parts. Let it soak and don't bother it. Once freed up, strip it down and see what you have. Parts are available to rebuild it. Some of the parts are badly pitted and could be replaced. You'll be very lucky if the barrel isn't rusted out, but even if it is - replace it and build it back up. Could end up being a fun shooter. (BTW - the springs may be toast, but those are also available). Pick up a good walnut stock and you're in there.
 
#14 ·
Only thing I've dealt with that looked maybe as bad as that was only a single shot shotgun and it mostly was rust. Only tried it since a nephew gave it to me, he bought it at a auction with help of his father and was proud of his purchase of the gift.
I first used brake cleaner, WD40 and soaked in gun oil before prepping and bluing. It never was shot afterwards, everything moved well and if didn't look close it looked OK but worried not safe to shoot.
 
#21 ·
Only thing I've dealt with that looked maybe as bad as that was only a single shot shotgun and it mostly was rust. Only tried it since a nephew gave it to me, he bought it at a auction with help of his father and was proud of his purchase of the gift.
I first used brake cleaner, WD40 and soaked in gun oil before prepping and bluing. It never was shot afterwards, everything moved well and if didn't look close it looked OK but worried not safe to shoot.
this will be one of those situations where I make it work without extra parts, load it, secure it between some 2x4's and use a string to fire it from a safe distance behind cover. If it doesn't self destruct I will continue the process.
 
#22 ·
I've had both water and fire damaged guns on my bench, and I'm about 95% sure that's water damage. Even with fire damage, the first test is springs, like Hawg said. If the gun got enough heat to damage the springs, everything else is compromised.
Parts:
 
#23 ·
There is a group out there that just deals with Ruger No. 1 rifles. It makes my head spin with how they talk about them. They might be a source for parts and information. It isn’t really a forum but more of a user group.
 
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#25 ·
Would somebody please, please tell me why every firearm that shows up here and looks severely neglected has been in a fire?!? Please? Is it just because there is no wood with it?
 
#30 ·
Could be worse...

A few pics of some abused and neglected pieces as examples.

IMHO if you are shooting lead bullet hand loads on the soft side of the rockwell scale perhaps not loaded up with antimony / tin a barrel with cratered interior surface damage or sewer pipe look will often print very nice groups at 50-100-150 yds...

Once dirtied up or a bit fouled or leaded the bore damage can fill in a bit and lead up - plus softer lead projectiles will provide a better deal for gas and can expand to engage what's left of the rifling lands and grooves to achieve proper spin rate and improve stabilization and accuracy / prevent blowby or keyholing...

A gas check might be appropriate on the base of the bullet or perchance paper patching / wrapping could be explored...

And of course as long as you understand it's a project for you to try and succeed and keep and shoot your OK but if you think it's an investment to sell on for a profit you might as well quit now and scrap it as you will never realize pennies of profit return on any investment of time money effort or materials...

And off it was the action in my last pic things might be different.

I salute you and wish you well and would love to follow your efforts should you move forward.

Mike
 

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#32 ·
Thank you. I will be posting photos as I go. Right now all of the internal parts are soaking in evaporust. Sanding down the barrel now. Also trying to dremel out the inside of the receiver. Bore doesn't look really bad, yeah it is pitted and rusty but I feel like my mosin looked worse and it patterned great at 100 yards.
Took a break today to leather and cord wrap a tomahawk for my wife.
 
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