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Hi errbody!

So the thread protector on my X-bolt's muzzle has been stuck for a long time now. There's currently a gap between the actual muzzle crown and the end of the thread protector, and I feel that gap is allowing high-pressure gas to force residue into the threads, causing the issue in the first place. I want to trim the thread protector down on a lathe to eliminate that gap - but I can't get the dang thing off? Any ideas? I've tried wrapping a leather belt around it and using vise-grips and the leather belt still slipped.

Oh, forgot - I did a search and couldn't find anything right away - stupid search filter wouldn't work so I just said screw it.
 

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Any ideas?
Upend the rifle and stick the muzzle in a small jar of Hoppe's # 9 leaning against a wall for at least a week and give it a try.

A while back I did this for the tang screws of a 122 year old Winchester and they came out effortlessly - and they were rusted and wouldn't budge previously. I gave it two weeks however I'll bet a week will do for you.

This is assuming the threads were OK and undamaged when previously screwed on.
 

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Aw heck, this is easy. Clam the barrel in a vise, using the jaws that are intended for pipe if your vise has them. Don't pad them and you'll get a better grip. Then on the thread protector just screw down a pair of vise grips as tight as you can. If that don't work, heat it up with a cuttin' torch, that'll loosen about anything...... :whistle:

And for heavens sake, I am being facetious!!! I just couldn't resist....:giggle:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Upend the rifle and stick the muzzle in a small jar of Hoppe's # 9 leaning against a wall for at least a week and give it a try.

A while back I did this for the tang screws of a 122 year old Winchester and they came out effortlessly - and they were rusted and wouldn't budge previously. I gave it two weeks however I'll bet a week will do for you.

This is assuming the threads were OK and undamaged when previously screwed on.
Thanks! Yeah I bought the rifle new last year, and it lives in a hard case when it ain't gettijg n.v used. Was thinking about soaking it in Seafoam the way you mentioned - but if Hoppes #9 worked for rusty screws then it should be a cinch for this!

Aw heck, this is easy. Clam the barrel in a vise, using the jaws that are intended for pipe if your vise has them. Don't pad them and you'll get a better grip. Then on the thread protector just screw down a pair of vise grips as tight as you can. If that don't work, heat it up with a cuttin' torch, that'll loosen about anything...... :whistle:

And for heavens sake, I am being facetious!!! I just couldn't resist....:giggle:
I done tried the pipe wrench and it didn't budge, might as well get the ziz wheel out. 😁
 

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but if Hoppes #9 worked for rusty screws then it should be a cinch for this!
Yea find a corner to stand it in so it will rest securely and give it at least a week!

Those thread protectors are pretty thin and any aggressive attempts to remove them (such as clamping it) may squeeze and deform it, only making it worse.
 

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Aw heck, this is easy. Clam the barrel in a vise, using the jaws that are intended for pipe if your vise has them. Don't pad them and you'll get a better grip. Then on the thread protector just screw down a pair of vise grips as tight as you can. If that don't work, heat it up with a cuttin' torch, that'll loosen about anything...... :whistle:

And for heavens sake, I am being facetious!!! I just couldn't resist....:giggle:
Lucky you added that last line i was beginning to wonder if you had found some powerful weed in your wife's flower garden to smoke! ;)
 

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I was thinking the same thing.:)

However, you would not believe the number of times a rifle has come into my shop with pipe wrench marks.:mad::mad::mad:
Pipe wrench marks and that diamond pattern from a mechanic's vice pressed into the metal. :mad:
If you have a drill bit the same size as the thread protector, drill a block of hard wood and cut it in half, use the block of wood same as you'd use a barrel vice insert to clamp the thread protector it will increase the surface contact and won't deform it. If it slips sprinkle some sugar on it, it acts just like rosin and it cleans up easy. meanwhile while you are making your wooden barrel vice inserts, get it soaking.
 

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First start with Kroil about 3 times waiting 24 hours between applications.

Then I would take a long heavy piece of leather and "U" wrap it around the barrel.

Put the ends of leather into a vice close to the end of the barrel and tighten down the vice to where it puts tension on the leather all the way around the end.

The use your favorite tool on the barrel to unscrew the protector.

Putting the protector into a vice puts two pressure points on both sides. That's why you want it wrapped and use the tension of the leather to apply pressure all the way around.
 

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I was thinking the same thing.:)

However, you would not believe the number of times a rifle has come into my shop with pipe wrench marks.:mad::mad::mad:
i have one and the )*529456%793 that did it then put some paint-coat that covered it up. i had spent many many hours draw filing and getting the dents and dings out of grand-dads old Winchester before giving it to that %(&^# to put back together. "bricklayers calling themselves gunsmiths, giving bricklayers a bad name"
i did get it fixed as best as it will ever be. just a bad experience.

rick
 

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Aw heck, this is easy. Clam the barrel in a vise, using the jaws that are intended for pipe if your vise has them. Don't pad them and you'll get a better grip. Then on the thread protector just screw down a pair of vise grips as tight as you can. If that don't work, heat it up with a cuttin' torch, that'll loosen about anything...... :whistle:

And for heavens sake, I am being facetious!!! I just couldn't resist....:giggle:
Heh, heh. Threads can't stick if they're liquid!
 

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Lucky you added that last line i was beginning to wonder if you had found some powerful weed in your wife's flower garden to smoke! ;)
She'd probably tell us all weeds are powerful...lol! Oh she hates weeds!!! I don't believe there's any "wacky tobbacy" out there. However, there is a few poppy's....not that we know anything to do with them but look at them, they do have a beautiful blossom. I keep joking with her saying she's gonna get us in trouble...lol! Apparently there's several varieties 'cause she bought these either at a green house or ordered them from some seed company.

The one that tickles me is okra. If you just glance at it, the leaves do sorta resemble hemp. I don't think I'd try smoking okra leaves any more than I'd try marijuana....lol!
 
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If it was a stuck nut on a bolt, I would heat just the nut with a torch (small propane) and take it off with a wrench.
I am pretty sure heat would work since it does for everything else.
I suspect when you get it off you will damage or at least mar it.
Can you get a replacement if you do so?
 

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She'd probably tell us all weeds are powerful...lol! Oh she hates weeds!!! I don't believe there's any "wacky tobbacy" out there. However, there is a few poppy's....not that we know anything to do with them but look at them, they do have a beautiful blossom. I keep joking with her saying she's gonna get us in trouble...lol! Apparently there's several varieties 'cause she bought these either at a green house or ordered them from some seed company.

The one that tickles me is okra. If you just glance at it, the leaves do sorta resemble hemp. I don't think I'd try smoking okra leaves any more than I'd try marijuana....lol!
The poppies with the nicest flowers come from Pakistan. 🤣🤣
 

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You guys that say Kroil, have you ever seen where is has penetrated rusty threads? I have a can of AeroKroil I've tried several times, and it never has! Just me, or did I get a bad can? I've had better luck with Hoppes #9, or acetone and ATF mixed.
I use Kroil and it's good stuff. It's not always a quick fix tho. I used to get some stuff from work called Free that was better but I've never seen it anywhere else. If you're not in a hurry kerosene works. I dug up a badly rusted 92 Winchester. A three month soak in kerosene freed it up. Store kerosene long term in a metal can and it will eventually bleed through the seam. Said can will hold gas after that with no leaks but it will never hold kerosene again.
 
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