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One other thing you could try..... very cautiously apply heat with a propane torch and then apply parafin / candle wax to the thread area right above the protector.
 

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You guys that say Kroil, have you ever seen where is has penetrated rusty threads? I have a can of AeroKroil I've tried several times, and it never has! Just me, or did I get a bad can? I've had better luck with Hoppes #9, or acetone and ATF mixed.
Right ... the BEST penetrating oil is a 50/50 mix of acetone and conventional (not synthetic) GM compatable ATF .
On stuck stuff a month of soaking isn't too long either ... most folks don't give penetrating oils enough time to penetrate ... that's one reason they don't work ... give them TIME to penetrate ... the threads are tight and rusted ... 30 mins isn't going to work ... 30 days and you get results .
Gary
 

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Garandaholic
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You guys that say Kroil, have you ever seen where is has penetrated rusty threads? I have a can of AeroKroil I've tried several times, and it never has! Just me, or did I get a bad can? I've had better luck with Hoppes #9, or acetone and ATF mixed.
You got it.
This is what you want for that task...and tap on it while you apply
 

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I have selection of Penetrating fluids. Kroil, PB Blaster, Tranny fluid. I give all these a try before I get physical. If these don’t work slide a piece of 1/2” copper tubing over it and put a torch to it. Copper guards from flame discoloration, get it hot fast, then try to unscrew soon as cooled down enough to work with.
 

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When my Dad was a lineman for the power company, he brought home transformer oil in a glass jar, because it would go right through a metal can. You could take a rag strip, dip it, and lay it on a crusty rusted nut, and 24hrs later, it would completely penetrate the rusted threads. Stick a rusty bolt in it half deep, and it walked up the threads.
Saw a TV commercial for this stuff that reminded me of it:
 

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I soak stuff in "Ed's Red", a mixture of ATF, acetone and mineral spirits. I'd run a small hose clamp around it TIGHT, stick the barrel in a padded vise and smack the screw assembly of the hose clamp with a small drift punch. .
 

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GUNZILLA
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Sorry for not responding sooner, just read the thread. If you have a sonic cleaner put transmission oil in a jar and fill up the sonic cleaner with water. Place rifle in jar until it covers the end of muzzle brake. Set the temperature to highest rating and run it for a couple of hours, repeat as necessary.
 

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Hi errbody!

So the thread protector on my X-bolt's muzzle has been stuck for a long time now. There's currently a gap between the actual muzzle crown and the end of the thread protector, and I feel that gap is allowing high-pressure gas to force residue into the threads, causing the issue in the first place. I want to trim the thread protector down on a lathe to eliminate that gap - but I can't get the dang thing off? Any ideas? I've tried wrapping a leather belt around it and using vise-grips and the leather belt still slipped.

Oh, forgot - I did a search and couldn't find anything right away - stupid search filter wouldn't work so I just said screw it.
I am a big believer in KROIL! It has helped remove many a frozen screw-in choke. Soak the barrel muzzle in a cup of KROIL for a couple of days. Put the barrel in a padded vise and use a strap wrench on the thread protector. If that does not work put the barrel in the freezer for a day. Then pull it out put it in the padded vise and heat the thread protector up with a heat gun preferably. You can use a propane torch but be very care not to over heat the barrel.
Once you get it off invest in some choke grease. A small tube will last you a lifetime.
An ounce of prevention... Good luck.
 

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Aw heck, this is easy. Clam the barrel in a vise, using the jaws that are intended for pipe if your vise has them. Don't pad them and you'll get a better grip. Then on the thread protector just screw down a pair of vise grips as tight as you can. If that don't work, heat it up with a cuttin' torch, that'll loosen about anything...... :whistle:

And for heavens sake, I am being facetious!!! I just couldn't resist....:giggle:
You mean don't grind a grove down one side???? ditto!
 

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Spray with "Blaster Penetrating oil" then chill the barrel with cold packs. Heat the thread protector with a heat gun or hair drier and it should come loose.. If all else fails, get a NUT BUSTER from an auto parts store and split the thread protector.
 

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How do you keep the acetone from evaporating? Put a drop on something and it is gone in seconds. I like PB Blaster, Kroil, or just about any penetrating oil. As others have said, "it needs time to soak in and work".
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Okay, so I'm broke till payday and bored to tears - time to quit professionally crastinating. 😁
Hand Finger Thumb Nail Wrist

Musical instrument Sleeve Wood Human leg Flooring

Gas Wood Camera accessory Microphone stand Cylinder


So I took the bottle cap from last night's orange Fanta(not sure how important that is) and filled it almost to the top with PB Blaster. Then I cleared out a spot in the corner of the bedroom closet and stood the rifle up in the cap. On a folded piece of paper towel. On a plastic bag that something from work came in.

The gap in between the actual muzzle crown and the thread protector leaves access for the PB Blaster to soak into the threads. And now we wait - elk season isn't till September, so I got a little bit of time. 😁
 

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The thread protector was stuck on my Walther P22 took it to my gunsmith who has all the right vices, clamps and pliers. He had it off in 3 minutes and didn’t charge me a dime. Always good to make friends with your local smith.
 

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How do you keep the acetone from evaporating? Put a drop on something and it is gone in seconds. I like PB Blaster, Kroil, or just about any penetrating oil. As others have said, "it needs time to soak in and work".
Depending on what and how, aluminum foil and tape or rubber bands to slow the evaporation, cause you'll never stop it.
Stuck choke tubes have to be the worst. Expensive tubes, stuck in a expensive barrel. Sometimes they come out, sometimes one or both get damaged. Easily prevented for a penny's worth of lube.
Stites, when you do get it off, a small dab of anti-seize on the threads, and it'll never happen again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Firpo, that's my one issue with where I live. The nearest town(Jackson WY) is 42 miles away, and I'm not so sure they have a dedicated gunsmith anymore. The nearest gunsmith that I know of is in Driggs ID. Other'n that, I work with a guy who knows a guy... who, put a friend's AR10 together - wrong. 😑
 
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