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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello

My trigger has some creep as I pull it back & then it makes solid contact right before the hammer drops. Is there any way to take the play out of the trigger. I did install a new Fusion hammer today, Would that have something to do with it?
 

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Try a good 'smith rather than try to tackle it yourself. I had a similar issue with one of mine and the price of a 'smith was cheap compared to screwing up a good pistol.
 

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Josh or one of them can help, I am no trigger guy. I have taken them apart and polished them up and made them smoother and I also have adjusted the creep out with the adjustment screw on the trigger itself, but thats about it
 

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it is supposed to have about 1/32nd inch travel (pretravel) before it releases the sear, this allows the hammer sear and disconnect to reset, depending on the hammer it may have tabs or wings on it to take out excessive pretravel
 

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Trigger terminology is important especially when you are attempting to describe a trigger issue. So here is how it is defined:

Pre-travel is the movement of the trigger before it touches the sear, which is the device that releases the hammer for ignition. Pre-travel is usually not a problem if it is not massive and the transition between it and the next stage of the trigger pull is large in force change. In a 1911 it can be minimized by a bending of the loop attached to the front of the trigger itself. But this is best left to a professional gunsmith.

Creep is the motion of the trigger as it moves the sear out of engagement with the hammer. There is a shelf (the engagement shelf) where the sear sits on the hammer and holds the hammer cocked. If that shelf is too deep then you can feel the sear moving on it before the hammer falls. If the engagement surfaces are not glass smooth then there can be a gritty feel as the sear moves across the machined surfaces of the shelf. Creep is removed by minimizing the engagement of the sear and hammer which is the safety of the system. So too little engagement is dangerous. Any reduction in sear engagement is best left to a professional 1911 gunsmith.

Hammer cam back is the motion of the hammer as the trigger is slowly pulled. It is caused by the angularity of the sear/hammer engagement surfaces which cause the hammer to move to the rear (cam) before the hammer falls. It too is the safety for the ignition system and there must be some cam back for a safe trigger. Get it wrong and a bump to the gun and it may go off. In general, a gun tinkerer should not be changing that angularity. There always must be some cam back of the hammer for safety's sake. Drop in hammer/sears for the 1911 usually minimize the cam back but still have some as they must for safety's sake. A good 1911 professional gunsmith who knows triggers knows how to minimize the cam back either with replacement parts or with parts modifications.

ALL triggers must be safe and have some pre-travel, some creep, some hammer cam back, and springs that load the iginition system such that a bump to the gun does not release the hammer unexpectedly and un-safely. After any work on the ignition system of any gun done by anyone, the gun should be tested for each trait listed above. If it fails on any count it should not be loaded with live ammo and certainly not attempted to be shot. If you get any of this wrong the vibration of shooting a cartridge may make the gun go full auto unexpectedly, which is extremely dangerous and illegal.

BE SAFE!

LDBennett
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks LD
I can live with it as it is. I put 300 rounds thru it yesterday with no problems at all. Shot accurate & smooth.
 
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