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Discussion Starter #1
After I bought my AR (Sig M400) some people I know told me to not shoot steel ammo, it'll hurt the extractor, get cases stuck in the chamber, ect, ect...

Well, 700 rounds of Tula Steel .223 later all is smooth. The only issue i've ever had with it is on occasion (maybe 1 round ever 100) it won't feed another round. I'm atributing this to an ocasional underpowered round. Other than that, nothing.

I've ran nothing but Frog Lube on my AR and keep it lubed and cleaned after every range session. Not dripping wet, but wet none the less and i've seen no abnormal wear on any parts of the BCG, even in the cold weather (30F).
 

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I've ran nothing but Frog Lube on my AR and keep it lubed and cleaned after every range session. Not dripping wet, but wet none the less and i've seen no abnormal wear on any parts of the BCG, even in the cold weather (30F).
That's why you haven't had any problems with that nasty steel cased ammo.

Keep it clean and lubed, brother.

kevinh
 

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Not much of an answer for you - more like a question: That steel cased ammo has some sort of protectant (laquer?), and I've known folks who shot plenty of the steel stuff (mostly 7.62X54) and complained that the laquer tended to coat the chamber when the weapon was fired enough to get hot. Afterwards they started getting jams and hard extractions.

I reload all of my ammo, and I won't fire steel cased stuff in ANY caliber I own. The sole exception is my SHTF stash of 7.62X39 (2400 rounds East German sealed case). If things get down to Alamo time I'm toast anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Not much of an answer for you - more like a question: That steel cased ammo has some sort of protectant (laquer?), and I've known folks who shot plenty of the steel stuff (mostly 7.62X54) and complained that the laquer tended to coat the chamber when the weapon was fired enough to get hot. Afterwards they started getting jams and hard extractions.

I reload all of my ammo, and I won't fire steel cased stuff in ANY caliber I own. The sole exception is my SHTF stash of 7.62X39 (2400 rounds East German sealed case). If things get down to Alamo time I'm toast anyway.
Jim - That Tula .223 does have some sort of something coating it. Wether it's laquer or not I don't know without researching it more but when I cleaned the gun I never pulled anything out of it but some really dirty (black) fowling. Nothing that looked like melted or burnt laquer.

I fired it plenty hard enough to get hot. I was wanting to test the ammo, I wasn't worried about breaking the gun, parts can be replaced. I fired 3 - 30 round mags as fast as I could swap mags and the barrel was HOT, but nothing ever got stuck.
 

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The steel used in steel cased ammo is Mild steel. Its almost as soft as brass cases and withstands high pressures better. It isnt going to hurt any hardened steel part of any firearm.

If the coating on the cases looks painted on they are laquered. If the cases are grey, they are teflon coated.
 

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For those who proudly and successfully fire Tula ammo through their AR's good for you. Broken extractors, prematurely worn chambers, the folklore never ceases to amaze. The damage rarely occurs with this underpowered junk ammo. The truth is an AR that is properly cycling Tula ammo is over gassed. The real damage will reveal itself when firing LC, high quality commercial or good quality reloads in an over gassed gun and/or light buffer.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
For those who proudly and successfully fire Tula ammo through their AR's good for you. Broken extractors, prematurely worn chambers, the folklore never ceases to amaze. The damage rarely occurs with this underpowered junk ammo. The truth is an AR that is properly cycling Tula ammo is over gassed. The real damage will reveal itself when firing LC, high quality commercial or good quality reloads in an over gassed gun and/or light buffer.
Do explain please, i'm new to the AR platform. I've fired some American Eagle .223 FMJBT through it and haven't had a problem with that either.

JLA, It must be teflon coated because the casings are "grey".
 

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While I prefer brass, I've fired something like a quarter of a million rounds of steel cased ammo through my AK's. Why would any other caliber be any different?

It will shoot and work just fine, blaze away. It's kinda fun to shoot ammo you don't need to pick up for reloads, if you miss a few, oh well.

I'm still not advocating steel ammo, but it isn't the devil
 

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Do explain please, i'm new to the AR platform. I've fired some American Eagle .223 FMJBT through it and haven't had a problem with that either.

JLA, It must be teflon coated because the casings are "grey".
What 312 means is most of the steel stuff is generally lower powered than comparable 5.56 milspec ammo. Overgassed is a term that describes the rifles gas system is letting too much gas into the action to operate it, which is requred to properly operate low powdered ammo in a gas gun. What he means by the real damage showing up when you shoot the higher powered milspec ammo is that the higher pressure ammo will be way over gassing the system of the rifle and will beat the hell out of it. If you find your rifle is overgassing (usually can tell by how hard the shell are ejecting and smacking the shell deflector) you can either play with the gas block if its a set screw type or add a stiffer recoil spring to counter the forces. Soem of the newer ARs are piston driven and are adjustable in that regard so its an easy task there..
 

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Discussion Starter #10
What 312 means is most of the steel stuff is generally lower powered than comparable 5.56 milspec ammo. Overgassed is a term that describes the rifles gas system is letting too much gas into the action to operate it, which is requred to properly operate low powdered ammo in a gas gun. What he means by the real damage showing up when you shoot the higher powered milspec ammo is that the higher pressure ammo will be way over gassing the system of the rifle and will beat the hell out of it. If you find your rifle is overgassing (usually can tell by how hard the shell are ejecting and smacking the shell deflector) you can either play with the gas block if its a set screw type or add a stiffer recoil spring to counter the forces. Soem of the newer ARs are piston driven and are adjustable in that regard so its an easy task there..
Thank you JLA, I wouldn't know how to tell with my limited experience. I do know about the shell deflector, it's marked up after every range session but easily wipes off upon cleaning. Probably sounds like a noob answer but ya i'm a noob to AR's, but i'm learning.
 

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While I prefer brass, I've fired something like a quarter of a million rounds of steel cased ammo through my AK's. Why would any other caliber be any different?

It will shoot and work just fine, blaze away. It's kinda fun to shoot ammo you don't need to pick up for reloads, if you miss a few, oh well.

I'm still not advocating steel ammo, but it isn't the devil
This is how I generally feel as well, I've fed a 1000 or so cheap Tul and Herter's steel through my Windham Weaponry AR without any problems at all. I'm no expert on AR's for sure, so the discussion about my success being due to my gun actually being set up to damage itself has me concerned. If there's such a huge risk to a gun my manufacturer is holding a warranty on, by this ammo, why don't they tell me not to use it?
 

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After I bought my AR (Sig M400) some people I know told me to not shoot steel ammo, it'll hurt the extractor, get cases stuck in the chamber, ect, ect...

Well, 700 rounds of Tula Steel .223 later all is smooth. The only issue i've ever had with it is on occasion (maybe 1 round ever 100) it won't feed another round. I'm atributing this to an ocasional underpowered round. Other than that, nothing.

I've ran nothing but Frog Lube on my AR and keep it lubed and cleaned after every range session. Not dripping wet, but wet none the less and i've seen no abnormal wear on any parts of the BCG, even in the cold weather (30F).
All BS, Urban legend. It may be a little dirtier but other than that you're fine.
 

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I have fired at least 5000 rounds of steel cased 223 thru my ARs. My DPMS shoots them like it was built for them. Never any FTF or problems. If it causes long term issues, I guess I will just have to find out later. In the meantime, I love it. Clean your guns more often and you shouldnt have any problems.
 

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Thank you JLA, I wouldn't know how to tell with my limited experience. I do know about the shell deflector, it's marked up after every range session but easily wipes off upon cleaning. Probably sounds like a noob answer but ya i'm a noob to AR's, but i'm learning.
Look at the spent cases. Overgassed shells will have excessive gas soot all over the case and the mouths and or sides of the case will be severely dinged by the shell deflector. Tuningan AR to run a specific ammo is not all that different from tuning a 1911 to run a specific ammo. Just install an extra power recoil spring to soften your ejection stroke so that the cases eject free of the action and just glance off the shell deflector and land no more than 10 feet away. You dont want it flingin em 30 feet, thats a sign of too much ejection force. If youre getting any ejector marks the ammo is too hot, change ammo brands..
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Spent cases look normal to me. No extra soot, no dings and they land about 4 to 5 feet away from me at my 4 o'clock in a nice pile.
 

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Thats perfect then.
 

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Thats perfect then.

I had a mini 14 that would sling em 40 feet! Installed a buffer and a Ex power recoil spring and Voila. 7 feet over my right shoulder and in a nice pile.
 

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is anyone making zinc 223 ? I see zinc and laquered 762x39.. I believe it is wold that is zinc, and tula is laq.. but may have it backwards.

just traded away the last of my wolf / tula x39 stuff for some pmc 223. rest of my x39 stuff is milsurp stuff on strippers in fabric bandoleers or in spam cans sealed waiting for the end of civilization.. ;)
 

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silver bear and barnaul are zinc plated, or basically galvanized like a 16 penny nail.
 
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