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Looking for help again with my us revolver I bought parts for it thinking it was for it but there's so many different styles and different things about this gun maybe you can just one look at the picture and can you let me figure out how get my hammer to lock in place and I've been looking at diagrams for it but they all different does anybody have one that I can use for mine thank you for help I would love to know anything I can about it
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The US Revolver was based upon the Iver Johnson 2ndModel , which was blackpowder frame. The did not have the "Hammer the Hammer Action" that Iver Johnson marketed.

The schematic I have attached is for the 1st Model, with the only difference being the top strap latch . The second model used a double post.

The lifters you have posted are for for a US Revolver and and Iver Johnson. The long one is for a Iver Johnson and the short one is for an US Revolver.

The "Hammer the Hammer Action " used a transfer bar system. With the hammer at rest, the long arm would be down and not resting on the firing pin. The hammer has a notch so that lifter fits in the notch while at rest. When the hammer was clocked the long section of the lifter would raise up and cover the firing pin. When trigger was pulled the hammer would hit the lifter, which would strike the firing pin.

The US Revolver did not use this, and the hammer would rest on the firing pin. (See photo of US Revolver Hammer). If you try to use a Iver Johnson lifter in a US Revolver action it will bind the action.

The reason you gun is not holding at full cock could be one of several reasons. It could be a worn sear (#18) or sear spring (#19) or the edges of the hammer could be worn. To check the spring lift up the bottom edge of the sear with a toothpick or your fingernail while cocking the hammer. If it stays cooked you need to replace the spring. If not, its probably the sear or hammer that needs replaced.
3523_2730_1338-revolver-exploded-view-top-break.jpg
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Discussion Starter #3
The US Revolver was based upon the Iver Johnson 2ndModel , which was blackpowder frame. The did not have the "Hammer the Hammer Action" that Iver Johnson marketed.

The schematic I have attached is for the 1st Model, with the only difference being the top strap latch . The second model used a double post.

The lifters you have posted are for for a US Revolver and and Iver Johnson. The long one is for a Iver Johnson and the short one is for an US Revolver.

The "Hammer the Hammer Action " used a transfer bar system. With the hammer at rest, the long arm would be down and not resting on the firing pin. The hammer has a notch so that lifter fits in the notch while at rest. When the hammer was clocked the long section of the lifter would raise up and cover the firing pin. When trigger was pulled the hammer would hit the lifter, which would strike the firing pin.

The US Revolver did not use this, and the hammer would rest on the firing pin. (See photo of US Revolver Hammer). If you try to use a Iver Johnson lifter in a US Revolver action it will bind the action.

The reason you gun is not holding at full cock could be one of several reasons. It could be a worn sear (#18) or sear spring (#19) or the edges of the hammer could be worn. To check the spring lift up the bottom edge of the sear with a toothpick or your fingernail while cocking the hammer. If it stays cooked you need to replace the spring. If not, its probably the sear or hammer that needs replaced.
View attachment 241469 View attachment 241470
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I was going to say you could do a "Hammer the hammer" upgrade but the long lifter/transfer bar on the right is for a 3rd Model Safety Automatic.
 
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