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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did not know if this should go here or in the gunsmithing section , after much debate I have decided on a finish for my slide I have decided to finish it with flat black ceramic header paint and am now waiting on the second coat to dry so far its a nice even finish. Will post pics when done baking
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well last coat on and toaster oven pre heating will put it in there in about 30 minutes for the first heat cycle
 

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Thats the way I did the green machine. I commandered the wifes oven to cure the KG Gunkote..:D
 

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Not me. The 2 I use are ceracote and KG Gunkote, I tried Wheeler ceramacote once, ONCE, that crap was like a 30 dollar can of model paint. It flaked right off, even after rigorous metal prep.

Ceracote is by far the most durable ive used, but you have to have an airbrush set up. its a 2 part mix like epoxy and it does have a work time.
 

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I was just wondering! Most of the time if it is an easy task it does not work. Thanks for the info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well the first heat cycle is done 30 minutes and back in for the 2nd cycle - wanted to try alumahyde or cerakote but I just couldn't wait
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well while getting it out to cool I chipped it and had to touch it up now I don't know how its going to turn out... May be taking it to be blasted tomorrow and start over
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well the 2nd heat cycle is over the finish isn't as smooth as before I had to touch it up ... So much for hoping it would even out guess I am going to see if 800 grit will smooth it tomorrow after the overnight cool cure
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
its out of the oven now waiting on it to cool
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
flaking off in chunks everywhere going to have it bead blasted then go from there...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok I missed a step the web site says make sure it dries completely before you do the heat cycles it was very easy to remove .. Brake clean and a wire brush on a dremel. It left a weird red tint to the metal but 400 grit paper got rid of that .... Hey JLA wanna cerakote a 1911 slide?
 

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H-D,
I used the dupli-color ceramic header paint with very good results on a chinese Tokarev. I let it air dry three days then put it on the gas grill outside at 200 degrees for 35- 40minutes. That finish was very tough! came out well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Do you have a picture? This looked great before the first heat cycle I should have let it dry overnight or all day in the sun before baking
 

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I found this post to be particullary interesting. Hhhmm, ceramic header paint. Where do ya get that stuff & is there anything better out there
that I should know about?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
got it from auto zone 9 bucks a can I should have waited a day before baking it it looked great but did not stick well, I still plan to use it on a shotgun receiver but I will have it bead blasted , paint it then wait a day to bake it
 

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Thanks for your experiance & advice. I love bead blasting stuff & I can well understand how it would improve the adhesion of the paint.
Would'nt have thought about waiting a day. Good to know.
 

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Do you have a picture? This looked great before the first heat cycle I should have let it dry overnight or all day in the sun before baking
I hope these work. The first is what I started with. The rest are after some alteration and header paint. I set the slide and frame on a stand on top of my hot water heater for three days, then baked them on a tin plate at 200 degrees(210, as low as I could get my grill to go) for 30-40 minutes then let them cool. Can't hardly scratch it.

PS- The name of the paint was "cast iron", but it came out with a slight green with light sparkle.
 

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