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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Winchester 22Cal Model 150 - PIN Broke

Hi guys and gals ... I have an old 22 Cal Winchester Model 150 Leaver Action
and the Fire Pin has broke.

This happened many many years ago
and I've tried to fix it - but I'm stumped.

I ordered a fire-ing pin and tried to get it to slide in the bolt
but it get jammed up 3 quarters through the bolt on something
and wont get past it .

I'm tempted to sand off a bit of the nub sticking up at the left tip
of the pin in an attempt to make it clear what ever it's hitting ...
but I think I may be sanding off the part that strikes the rim ( rim fire ) .

If anyone is familiar with the Winchester Model 150 22 Cal Leaver Action
and has installed a fire-ing pin ... could you please lend me some guidance?

Another reason why I dont want to just willy-nilly start sanding off bits of
the fire-ing pin ( with no guidance ) is because, that little piece of metal
was $75 Bucks !! ... I think I'd better ask for some advice .... ?

Thanks for your thoughts :)
 

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The firing pin on that gun doubles as the ejector. Dont install the pin from the rear forward, install it from the side IIRC at least thats how it is on the 190 which is the semi auto version. The triangle piece at the tip end is the ejector and its probably hooking on the inside of the bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
See illustrated reply .

I'm hoping a gun smith may have worked in this gun,
and is a member here ... who can lend some advice,
or an owner of this same gun ( model 150 )

I have seen a post about the 190, but it's not the same bolt.

Thanks for any thoughts.
And if you could confirm that what I think is the strike,
IS the strike, that would be good.
 

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The rimfire strike point is the top of the pin not the set back. That I do know. If the setback area was the strike point that would require the barrel to have a keycut in the chamber to clear and that key cut would be past the case head so you would have a blow out every shot. I'm betting more is to installing the firing pin than just sliding it in from the rear.
 

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See illustrated reply .

I'm hoping a gun smith may have worked in this gun,
and is a member here ... who can lend some advice,
or an owner of this same gun ( model 150 )

I have seen a post about the 190, but it's not the same bolt.

Thanks for any thoughts.
And if you could confirm that what I think is the strike,
IS the strike, that would be good.
Silly question. Have you tried removing the pin shown in the forward area of the bolt before installing the firing pin? Hmmmmm?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
• Original pin broke - and is out of the bolt.
• Pin is not shown in the bolt - as it is not there,
what is there, is the clip mechanism that hooks the rim of the bullet
to help eject it.
• That ( pin ) can not be removed - without splitting the bolt in two.
It is a two piece bolt ( two pieces of metal sandwiched together, held by a rivit sort of pin ) but seems made to be solid state.
• New pin slides in from the back of the bolt but wont clear the hing area
of the rim clip/hook.
• So, it seems I need to modify the the new pin, to clear that area,
but it would be best to seek the advice of a Smith - who may have experience with this model ... before I start griding metal off of the pin.
 

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Paul, no offense intended, but if you paid $75.00 for that firing pin, somebody saw you coming.
You could have ordered the same pin for $17.00 + shipping from Numrich. The model 150 and the model 190, according to Numrich use the exact same bolt.
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufacturers/Winchester-33573/Rifles-42602/150-40275.htm

if your problem lies with the pin in the front of the bolt, there may be somthing hung up in the firing pin channel. Otherwise that pin must be removable in order to replace the firing pin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Looks like a paid too much - yup - but $75 included tax & shipping,
still too much though ... what’s done is done. ... bygones.

According to the parts diagram - I can clearly see ( see link in previous post )
that the bolt assembly for the 190 is not the bolt assembly for the 150,
but interestingly I do see that they offer a specific part number 21
which is the Extractor for the model 150 bolt,

which makes one hypothesise ... since they offer the part individually,
is there a way of getting it out of the bolt,
because it is the vary part that is preventing me from getting the pin in.

The tip of the pin catches up on the hinge pin of the extractor
( as illustrated in last photo )
So if there is a way to get that pin out,
then I could install the pin, and then reinstall the extractor.

The extractor install as is looks very permanent and solid state,
but if any knows a trick to getting that pin out, I’d be interested to hear your thoughts.

PS. the strike point of the firing pin is I’m sure is how I’ve illustrated it
as there is a spring inside the bolt that rests on the back part of the pin
upper right of the hole, to give constant back pressure.
 

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did you notice that the firing pin you have is for a magnum. The numrich schematic shows the replacement for the long rifle to quite different from yours
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
" Firing Pin, Magnum, Original
WINCHESTER | 150, 190 "

( The exact description of the part )

I have the " WINCHESTER | 150 "
and for what it's worth, I use to shoot Magnum all the time with it.
The pin shown in the Numrich image " is " ever so slightly different
in the the back ( where the hammer strikes ) is not exactly the same;
however, there is little point in dwelling on that becuause my issue is
getting the Front, ( the strike point to rim of casing ) to slide through
the bolt without getting obstructed by the pivot point of the extractor,
which is permanently in place inside the bolt.
Attempting to obtain something different would be pointless
as I would still face the issue with the front of the pin, not the back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
SWEEEEET NEWS !!!!

On the advice of the seller of the Pin ...
I tried to punch out the pivot pin of the extractor arm ...

It DID pop out ... :)
and I was fully able to reassemble the new pin,
with spring and retaining needle, put extractor arm back, re-install pivot pin...
and - " BANG " - The old 150 is back together and working like a champ !!!

See photo so that the next guy knows just what to do. :)
 

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