[Alpo]

Problem with waterglass is, like any other adhesive, it congeals when exposed to air. So, you open your jar (I have a quart), pour some into a container and close up your jar, hoping that enough oxygen did not get in there to cause the surface to set up. Unless you are doing bunches and bunches at one time, whatever you have poured off in your small container has congealed before you get your third batch of shells loaded.

Elmers works the best, for me.

I was trying 30/40 Krag, as I have lots of that. Rim is too thick. Must take the thickness off the front of the rim. Much easier to remove it from the rear, but that makes the primer pocket shorter. Taking it off from the front, without cutting a hole in the side of the brass, is tricky, and a PITA. So I gave up and bought the Mag-tech stuff.

Load 12 gauge, 16 gauge and 410s. The 410s are the easiest. 44/40 shell holder for priming. Pulled a half-ounce load out of Hodgdons manual. Powder, overpowder wad, felt wad, shot, overshot card, glue. I tried putting a small amount of crimp on it, just to make them feed into the gun easier. Shot the crimp off. The three I crimped are now a 16th of an inch shorter than my others. Oh well. Single shot and SxS, so I don't need that curved in front to feed from a magazine.

I've been thinking of making "slug" loads. 180 grain 40 S&W bullet. Twice as heavy as a regular 410 slug, but still lighter than normal shot loads, so should not have a problem with safe powder charges. Probably won't be very accurate, but for up close and personal it might make an impression.

I also use Circle Fly wads.

 

[Alpo]

Something I've thought about, but haven't tried. A syringe. Suck up a syringe-full and close the jar back. When you go to seal your shell, just squirt some down into it. If you keep the level all the way up to the spout, only that part could gel. The rest, inside the syringe, should stay liquid. Maybe.

 

[Alpo]

>leave primer in and stick case in your lead pot the primer keeps the lead out of the inside of the case.<

You're annealing the ENTIRE CASE?

 

[Alpo]

I'm really amazed at these folks that use .444 brass. Maybe it works because of the slanted edge of the rim.

http://stevespages.com/jpg/cd444marlin.jpg

But 303 Brit and 30/40 Krag are supposed to work. Notice they have almost the same diameter and thickness of rim as the .444. But then, the 30/40 has a slanted rim edge.

http://stevespages.com/jpg/cd303british.jpg

http://stevespages.com/jpg/cd3040krag.jpg

I have never tried 444 brass, but I have tried 303 and 30/40 in 4 different shotguns, and since three of 'em were SxS, that means seven different barrels. None of the guns would close. Thinning the top of the head, which would be easier, would make the primer pocket shallower. So you'd have to thin the rim from the backside. I tried it. Pain in the butt. That's why I was so happy that the actual 410 brass became available.

My brass cases, in 12 gauge, 16 gauge and 410, all use LP primers. Pistol, not rifle, and there is plenty of fire there to set the powder off.

 

[Alpo]

I'm afraid not.

The 410 shotgun is based on the 44/40 Winchester.
http://stevespages.com/jpg/cd4440winchester.jpg

The base dimensions of both the 444 Marlin
http://stevespages.com/jpg/cd444marlin.jpg

and the 303 Brit
http://stevespages.com/jpg/cd303british.jpg

are very close to the 44/40.

The dimensions of the 30/30, however,
http://stevespages.com/jpg/cd3030winchester.jpg

are quite a bit smaller. .442 vs .460 and .470.

.030 is a LOT of undersize, especially at the case head. The walls might blow out to fit the chamber, but you'd have this "rebated" head, and it would not be safe.

Also, being that much undersize, your extractor would not reach it, and you'd be picking the empties out with your pocketknife.