The Firearms Forum banner

newbie question about reloading 45acp

3.1K views 16 replies 6 participants last post by  GHP  
#1 ·
i'm brand new at reloading, i'm wondering, what kind of equipments do you need to start reloading 45acp? and how much to get it started. thanks for your help.!
 
#2 ·
I would look at Lee loading equipment. They usually have some good starter
set up kits to get you started at the best price. Check around online to get
an idea of prices. I would try Midway USA and Midsouth Shooters Supply.
 
#3 ·
Biggest thing to remember about the .45 ACP is that it headspaces on the case mouth to base dimension; the case mouth must be prominent, and square, for accuracy. In this, and similar calibers, you want a 'taper crimp', NOT a 'roll crimp', seating / crimping die.
Buy your powder in 8# kegs, it is cheaper, that way, and if you remember my first point, the reason for the second will make itself obvious, quickly!
Go to www.Dillonprecision.com/, and look at the 'Square deal' press- all you need, except a loading manual, to be up an running, for $320US!
Welcome to our world, friend!
 
#4 ·
A Lee turret press and a set of .45 ACP dies will get you started. I agree with ironsight65 that a starter kit might be the way to go.

I don't agree with stash247 that you buy your powder in 8 lb. kegs. Get a one pound can to start with. I use WW 231 and get about 1,300 .45 reloads per 1 lb. can.

.45 ACP isn't too difficult to reload (.38 Spl is the easiest, IMO) but expect a few mistakes at first. Get a reloading manual and follow the directions.

I've found that brass cases work better than nickel cases for the .45 ACP. Jacketed bullets are easier to reload, but lead bullets are often a lot cheaper and work well. The 230 gr. FMJ bullet works in every .45 I've ever shot.

Welcome to reloading, and good luck.
 
G
#6 ·
WARNING! Reloading is as addictive at pure opium, ns3, and there is no known cure (not that you will want to be "cured!"). :D Welcome to the world of reloading addicts.

There are lots of possible approaches for a new reloader. As you've no doubt already heard, some will recommend a progressive press right off the bat. In my view, though, you are better off starting with a high-quality single-stage press like the RCBS Rockchucker, for example. The reason I say this is that using a single stage will teach you much more about the technicalities of reloading than a more automated one. I think it is also true that, unless you need to reload in very high volume for some reason, a single-stage will get the job done for you quite effectively without a huge initial investment. As for calibers to begin your (probably life-long!) exploration of reloading, I too would recommend the .45 ACP and the .38 special/.357 magnum. Bullets and casings are inexpensive for both, powder usage is not heavy, and a beginner's reloads usually shoot just fine. As for rifles, I would recommend the 30-06 or .270 as a beginning point. Another good rifle caliber to reload (and one where you can REALLY save money) is the old .45-70.
 
#8 ·
The .45 dies will include a "deprimer" that will automatically pop out the old primer while you resize the case. It's all one easy step. Resize and deprime at one time. No problem.

You will need a powder measure. Lee makes them, as do most other companies. I use Lee's autodisk press, but other types are available.
 
G
#9 ·
reasonable price for the press, but how do measure the powder and get the primer out of the casing? is there a starter package that includes all that stuff? any you guys would recommend?
RCBS sells a very nice beginner's reloading kit that includes everything you need to get started, ns3, including the Rockchucker press, often a set of dies (usually either .45 ACP or 30-06), powder funnel, case lub, lubing pad, powder measure, scale . . . in short, everything except powder, primers, and bullets. Natchez, for example, has them priced at around $240.00

http://www.natchezss.com/category.cfm?category=475&brand=RC&catLevel=2
 
#10 ·
As pistolschutze mentioned, the RCBS kit is a good one.

You won't need a "lube pad" or "case lub" for .45 ACP if you buy carbide dies. You should buy carbide dies. They are absolutely worth the few extra bucks. When you advance to rifle calibers the lube and pad are important.

The RockChucker press is a "single-stage" press. It is a bit slower than a turret press. The RC has been around for years. It is built like a tank.
You will never wear it out.

For pistol calibers I prefer the Lee Turret press, which is lighter and faster and cheaper. In truth, either reloading press is a good choice.
 
#11 ·
For pistol reloading, if you are doing any quantity, unless you like sitting in one spot for hours, go with a progressive. Not sure what I can crank out, but I suspect around 500 rounds in two hours, taking my time, randomly weighing charges being thrown, setup, everything. I've got a single stage too (for rifle and very small pistol batches) but unless you plan on reloading for rifle, or ONLY doing small batches of pistol, stick with the progressive. You don't need cartridge trays, powder funnels, all that stuff. A progressive is pretty much self contained, so you've got a bigger piece of equipment, but less overall. Cost of a lee pro 1000 is probably $150 at most, with dies included.

Probably only need to load once in two years with 500 rounds and my volume of shooting.

I doubt you can go wrong with any of the "major" makes of presses, I've had a Lee Pro 1000 for years, only real problem I have really experienced with it is priming, and I use the Lee Auto-Prime (hand held) to do that while I'm sitting in front of the TV, etc. Thousand cases at a time or so, and store the primed cases in a dry spot if they aren't to be loaded right away. You can do rifle primers with it as well, and is much simpler it seems to me, than any of the other mass priming methods out there. (Priming strips, etc)

Agree with the carbide dies statement. Don't waste time with lesser dies. Should come with a kit.

You'll definitely need a good powder scale to confirm charges being thrown with any automatic powder feed setup.
 
G
#13 ·
your dies are for taking out old primers and putting in new primers and to resize the case and put the powder in the case and the crimping of the bullet they all have be set perfectly to work right. if you go to a gun shop maybe they have a press set up to show you how it all works.
 
#14 · (Edited)
#15 ·
nsv3n: We all have forgotten, myself included, to tell you some of the most basic stuff. Buy a reloading manual, or two, three, or four, and read them cover to cover before you buy the first primer, or pound of powder!
The old story" When all else fails, read the instructions" applies here, in Spades!
To your question, specifically, the powder #1, #3, #5, are like the names of drugs; they, to the knowledgeable, in the field, describe exactly what the powder will, and won't, do, it's speed, and pressure curve, igniteability, and so on.
Any good loading manual will have a chapter or more, on the subject, with a chart, or list, rating powders from various manufacturers, according to burning rate, with coomments on caliber applicability, and pressures.
These are the 'Bible', for reloaders; "ignore the Bible", my aunt Berta used to say, "and you'll roast in Hell". In this endeavor, ignore THIS bible, and what ever direction the Good Lord takes you, your fingers will still be at the range!
You are building a series of potential bombs, if uninformed, with which to tear up weapons, and tissue; please buy the books, FIRST!
 
#17 ·
This is my first post here although I have been reloading for over 30 years.

I would definitely NOT reccomend that you start reloading with a Lee Pro 1000 press. Get a good single stage or simple turret press. It should cost a little less and you will use it forever - even if you later add a progressive press.

The Pro 1000 will crank out a lot of ammo in a short period of time once you get everything adjusted correctly and if you can keep it that way. But you don't need the hassle of "tuning" the Pro 1000 while you are learning. I used two of them for several years but got rid of them and went back to my trusty Lyman turret press.

Just my suggestion.

GHP