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Savage 29a disassembly/reassembly

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19K views 23 replies 8 participants last post by  VarmintJim  
#1 ·
I had acquired a Sears Ranger (Savage 29a) some time ago and like most fools, I was performing the disassembly with confidence until hearing that tell-tale ping of metal falling, hitting something solid, and then disappearing into the depths of garage dark spaces. Once assembled, it fires fine, but cycling the action results in the tube feeding an extra round under the lifter effectively giving me a 2 shot rifle.

I actually have 2 questions.

1. I know I did this way back when I received the rifle, but how do I get the bolt assembly removed from the pump slide. I either must have been just lucky or used a different kind of force to get it removed.

2. Does anyone have photos of the insides of this sucker and hopefully the location of where the cartridge stop or ball bearing is supposed to go). I have acquired replacements of both, but am not sure what actually fell out and would need to know where it goes. (That cartridge stop and pin are tiny)

Looking forward to getting this rifle back in service.
 
#3 ·
Thanks Trap55.
I've seen that one before, but I would need some hint as to how I separate the operating handle from the breechbolt. Is there some trick to it where I only move it half way before pushing down or something?

Removing the Outside Mag Tube gives me some side to side movement, but not enough to unhook it.
 
#4 ·
It's been too many years, so this is my best guess. After the rifle is broke down in half, remove the screws that hold the forearm wood on. Slide the bolt all the way back, and the pin in the operating slide should separate from the bolt?
Try that, and if it doesn't work, maybe JimK will jump in here.
 
#5 ·
i can see where it should come free, but doesn't want to slide freely out. as teh breechblock tilts coming out the back, it doesn't tilt enough to release. is this a case were I have to remove teh barrel too? that might give enough tilt to the operating arm.
 
#8 ·
The bearing I bought was 1/4". it doesn't actually slide out the tube (think I had it in just the right spot in the cycle) it's "riding" the port side rail below the operation arm. It's trapping between the wall and the lifter so it shouldn't come out, but it doesn't allow the action to close. Another posting mentioned a bearing of 3/16" size, so off to pick up a 3/16" bearing tomorrow from Lowe's!
 
#10 ·
Alrighty, something is still not right. even 3/16" bearing won't allow the action to close completely. So here are 2 pictures of where I believe this bearing to go.

Notice in the first one the action arm has this indention almost like a bowl.

In the second one, the bearing will sit in it. as the action closes it does appear to pinch right below the barrel but the action doesn't swing up.

Is this where that bearing goes. I haven't seen anywhere that diagrams indicate I should be able to insert the cartridge stop so I am assuming that mine needs the bearing.

Can someone with a 29a snap a picture of the innards so I can see what I might be missing.
 

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#11 · (Edited)
The second picture is incorrect. I'll take a look at mine.

The Savage 29A doesn't use the ball bearing as a cart cutoff, the Model 29 does. A very different action from the Model 29A. The 29 bolt locks in the front. The 29A does not.

However, if you have a 29, the pump handle needs to be removed form the action slide. Push the action slide back through the opening in the frame and you will see the hole in the frame the ball bearing lives in beneath the slide bar.
 
#13 ·
stonechimney's schematic shows the part. It is sort of fish shaped with a transverse pin thru the eyes of the fish. The tail of the fish acts as the cartridge cut off. It pivots on the pin, in the frame. It's located under the action bar in the forward part of the frame, in line with the magazine tube.

On either the 29 or 29A, to gain access, removes the inner mag tube, remove the screw that holds the spacer. Yoiu can see it thru the loading port. Remove the fore end screws, slide the wood off the action bar to one side or the other, remove the action bar. The cart cutoff place will be unmistakable. Can't miss.
 
#14 · (Edited)
i know this sounds silly, being I did this once before, but i cannot get the action arm to separate from the action. It goes all the way back and tilts a little, but will not tilt enough to remove the action. I'm guessing it should just slide free right? Does the barrel have to be removed first (which I didn't do before).

I also really appreciate everyone's help with this!
 
#15 ·
The barrel on the 29A is not designed to be removed for cleaning or routine disassembly. Once you have separated the rifle into two halves, bring the breechbolt assembly all the way to the rear, disengage the action bar stud from its track in the breechbolt and remove it from the rear. The action bar and forend should now slide all the way forward.
Image
 
#17 ·
It should be easier if you pull the outer mag tube out from the frame enough so it doesn't interfere with the slide bar. Pull the action bar towards the muzzle, twist and turn so the stud on the bar clear the frame.

If you get frustrated, step away from the gun. Go watch TV. Come back to it later. Ask me how I learned this.
 
#18 ·
Probably the same way I approached a problem that had pushed me past the edge into insanity. It was tossed in a particularly bad way and caused direct or collateral damage to something else. (Xbox controller tossed toward TV for me)
Only takes one time for that.

I walked away shortly after my post and just now am tackling it again. :)
 
#19 ·
Hi Everyone - I have a Western Field 29A which I bought used in Deadwood, SD c.a. 1957. It fires OK inserting one round at a time but the magazine tube needs work. The first need is the complete inner magzine tube. I'd appreciate any and all suggestions for where I might purchase one. Many thanks for your help.
 
#20 ·
I have picked up inner tubes from gun shows, individual gun enthusiasts, and local gun shops independently owned. There are many different diameters of tubing used. Make sure you measure what you have. I picked up several tubes thinking they were same size, just to find out variations 0.005" to 0.010". You probably wont find the exact length you need, but a longer one can be made to fit with a little work.
 
#22 ·
The Model 29A I am working on appears to have the (10) operating handle bar assembly made in two pieces which are held together by the right operating handle screw. Someone appears to have soldered the outer magazine tube to (18) the magazine tube retaining screw bushing, plus they brazed (16) the outer magazine tube to the receiver which did not hold.

Any ideas on how to recover from this. Since the (18) magazine tube retaining bushing is filled with metal I am considering a small drop of JB weld to retain the magazine tube to the barrel with an additional small amount in the area where magazine tube enters the receiver. As near as I can tell the missing magazine retining screw prevented movement of the magazine tube.

Thanks in advance for your responses.
 
#23 ·
USNRet30, I don't know what the budget is on this project but we can remove the offending solder and brazed material, obtain and/or make the required parts and put the gun back together correctly.

Please don't JB Weld your gun together.
 
#24 ·
Hello all,

Not to Hi-Jack this thread, but it is somewhat on topic. I am rehabbing a Savage Model 29B that was handed down within my family. I want to pass it along to my son. The gun is a great shooter, but I think as a youngster I lost the cartridge stop and stop pin when tinkering with it. When the action is cycled, the cartridges within the feedtube pile up within the breech.

Is there anyone with their ears on that has the 29B that could show me (photos would be great!) this part in its correct anatomical position. My old man is a machinist and I am certain we can make one, if I could see where it rests within the rifle.

Thanks so much in advance,

James